Yes, I think I am willing to live without having the presets and clock.
Just don't want to drain the battery so I'll do without a
constant/permanent conection.

Not sure I understand what you mean by "If the accessory switch is
fused for 10 amps or less, you are ok". Do you mean I just need to
make sure I put a 10A blade-type fuse in the fuse block (at the
currently unused Accessory Switch connector) in addition to the one
that is already at the back of the stereo unit?

Also, the supplied wire are too short to reach the fuse block so I will
need to buy extra wires. Do I need to look for specific rating or any
wires will do?

Andre


RCE wrote:
"Melandre" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am in the process of installing a marine stereo into my boat. I am
thinking of connecting it to the Accessory switch. Two basic
questions:

1) If I connect the unit to the fuse block, do I also need to connect
the battery lead and ground lead to the 12V battery? Or is the fuse
block connection all I need to power the unit?

2) the back of the unit already has a 10A fuse. Does it mean I don't
have to add a fuse to the fuse block?

Andre


It is likely that there are two 12 volt supply wires on the radio. One is
the main supply and may be hooked up to the accessory switch. The other
supply wire is supposed to be hooked up to a 12 volt supply that is on all
the time. It is for the memory for presets and clock, if equipped. The
downside of hooking it up this way is that although the current draw for the
memory circuits is small, over time it will discharge the battery if you
aren't charging and/or using the boat regularly. The downside of not
hooking it up to a constant 12 volt source is that you will lose your
presets and clock every time you turn the accessory switch or radio off. If
you decide to hook it up this way anyway, just connect both 12 volt supply
wires to the same accessory switch supply point.

With regard to your other question ... if the radio has a 10 amp fuse, then
the supplied power wires should be rated for at least 10 amps, assuming the
radio manufacturer followed code. If the accessory switch is fused for 10
amps or less, you are ok. If it is fused for more ... like 20 amps
(unlikely), then the risk is that the radio supply wire between the
accessory switch and the radio may not be properly fused for it's capacity.
I doubt this is the case however and you should be fine. Worth checking
though, for insurance purposes if nothing else.

RCE

www.eisboch.com