Digital or analog?
I used a brand new Craftsman digital. Not the top of the line but not the
cheapie either. It was around $45 on clearance.




I tested the volt meter at the battery and got the full 12 volts. Testing
at the coil gives me nothing.

The coil (+) and... What did you use for a ground(-)?

I tried three spots for the negative lead. The negative battery terminal as
well as the engine block (scraped clean) and the negative coil terminal. And
I did ensure that the key was on at the time of the test.


I realize that my naivete is going to show here, but the boat is on the
trailer, and is NOT connected to the truck. I should still have a sufficient
ground though... no?










Hooking up a wire with gator clips to the positive side of the battery to
the positive side of the coil produces no change.

Do you mean that you still do not have 12 volts at the coil to ground?
What are you using for a ground on this test? There always has to be a
reference to ground or we cannot help you figure this out.

Keeps turning over nice
and strong, but no firing whatsoever.

You will get no spark ever if you don't get this 12 volts at the coil to
ground cranking first, and have the points set to open to the specified
gap twice every engine revolution.

How did you set the points gap?


By the way, I *did* remove the tach wire while conducting all tests.

You removed it from what? It should be one of two connections at the (-)
post on the coil. It won't make a lick of difference, though, if you
still do not have 12 volts at the coil(+) to ground(not coil"-") while
cranking.


I changed back to my original coil and performed the tests again. No
change.

It won't make any difference which coil you use to get the 12 volts coil
(+) to ground.

I am going to have to wait for daylight to continue this saga.

Let us know!


Rob