Question#1-
My force 10 stove has thermocouple shut-offs at each burner which don't
allow fuel to flow if the flame goes out. My understanding is that this
is a requirement on all current marine propane devices , but you should
check.

The propane solenoid switch should be within easy reaching distance of
the appliance, but not over the flame area. (my memory of the ABYC
standard). If you use a switch with an indicator light built-in, you
shouldn't forget and leave the propane on.

My soleniod switch/circuit picks up power from the cabin accessory
circuit, and the surveyors have had no quibbles with it.

Direct wiring to the battery, rather than via the breaker panel, is
generally reserved for things like emergency bilge pumps and radios, if
then.

John

GBM wrote:
Two questions:

1. Remote Solenoid switch

My Seaward propane switch is powered from the main panel supply. But this
could be a potential safety problem. If the main panel switch/breaker trips
or is accidentally switched on and off, the propane solenoid will switch on
and off and could cause propane to flow to an unlit stove.

Should the propane switch be hot wired from the house battery?

2. Propane Detectors

My propane detectors (have two) are powered from a fused switch on the main
panel. This means we must remember to turn them on before activating the
propane solenoid.

Should the detectors be:
- hot wired to the battery like bilge pump (not good because of continuous
battery drain.)
- wired to main battery switch (so they come on whenever we have power
turned on from house batteries)
- wired so they activate when solenoid switch is turned on (probably not
good due to start-up delay in detectors.)

Does ABYC address this? How are modern boats wired for propane? (OK - that
two more questions )

GBM