Followup question:

Peggie Hall wrote:
All is working now. Only thing is I'm not sure if we put enough grease
in the cylinder area where the piston rides up and down.

If you were sparing with it, you prob'ly didn't. The whole tube in the
rebuild kit is supposed to go into the pump...not just a dab on each of
the o-rings etc. Take the pump off the base again and put the whole rest
of the tube into it...pump a few times to spread it all over the inside
of the cylinder. That's all the lubrication it should need for a year.
And you should do it again annually as preventive maintenance if you
don't want to rebuild the pump more often than every 5-6 years.


For a pump which is already in service (and was rebuilt with nearly all
of the supplied grease going onto the piston O-ring), this is how I
regreased it:

I took off the base, put the piston at the highest point, and then
thoroughly swabbed the entire cylinder (since it was difficult to
control, I did the part under the stroke a bit, too) with the
non-petroleum swimming pool supplier Teflon grease you'd previously
recommended.

This was done when I didn't succeed in making the dry pump go
completely dry (from another thread). I've since learned to expect
that some of it will fall back, and it's not a problem. However...

Two questions result from that and the above.

First, is that sufficient, or do I need to take the piston out and put
it on the O-ring?

Second, the pool stuff is markedly thicker than that provided in the
rebuild kits. That's resulted in (well, perceived, anyway) greater
pumping effort than before. As yet, I've only been using fresh
drinking water (our tanks), run through the sink drain Tee on the
intake, so I don't know if that's a factor. The second question is
whether the higher viscosity (not actually at all viscous - it won't
run out of the tube of you hold it upside down) and apparent higher
effort is "OK" or a sign of some problem and the need to buy something
else?

Thanks, as always...

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
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