Brightwork finish preferences .. question
I was looking for an acrylic product like this a few weeks back and
the only one I could find (the one in Gloucester MA) appeared to have
gone out of business. I gave up and invested in teak oil.
Do I have to get all the teak oil off before I can use Honey Teak?
--
Roger Long
"Rich Hampel" wrote in message
...
I prefer one of the modern catalyzed urethane/acrylics such a "Honey
Teak" or "Smith & Co. 5 year clear". These are for teak only and
dont
have the adhesion for other species.
The reason is ... they look like 'prime' oil based varnish, can be
'hand-rubbed' or powerbuffed and with minor maintenance can last 5-6
seasons.
Whats wrong with teak oil? It rapidly oxidizes and turns very dark
and then needs to be stripped. Of course, a 'resinated' teak oil
can
produce a gloss surface that rivals the very best varnish coatings
for
"interior" work.
In article t9Oeg.2962$634.359@trndny06, Thomas Wentworth
wrote:
Please post what you use on your bright-work. Tell why you use it,
how it
goes on, and just generally what reason this product is the one for
you.
There are so many finishes, products, etc that I can't decide.
It seems as if Cetol ( spelling? ) is all the rage. But there are
lots of
products, I guess.
What is wrong with just plain teak oil?
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