Yeah sure... and the same folks probably slather their brightwork with
'cetol'.

BTW if you want the acrylic overcoats to look as good as finely buffed
gelcoat, flat sand and buff the acrylic as I described above.

The 'problem' with these coatings is that eventually have to be removed
when they oxidize and begin to lose adhesion. Acutally I prefer
urethanacrylic copolymers, especially on teak but with a bit of ferrous
oxide thrown in to retard UV damage. But still, ****nothing**** looks
as good as freshly buffed gelcoat ... thats the way it comes from the
factory and its really easy to keep that way.
When I look at a boat for sale, having an acrylic overcoat for me is a
deal breaker because usually its hiding 'something' and its impossible
to visualize the true condition of the gelcoat.


In article , Dave
wrote:

On Thu, 20 Apr 2006 04:41:05 GMT, Rich Hampel said:

Beware snake oil: acrylic coating 'wipe on' coatings. They look good
for a season or two but ultimately fail and have to be removed (when
they will look like a severe skin disease). The acrylic removal is a
PITA and is ultimately more harmful than the above powerbuffing
method.

Not my experience or the experience of may who've used them.