I've built several stitch-n-tape boats, and ply on frame, etcetera.
Stitch-n-tape in my mind is by far the best approach and saves the most in
time, money, and complexity.
Many of the older texts and write-ups talk about using copper wire, or metal
wire, etc to do the stitching and then illustrate various techniques for
either leaving them in or taking them out. Some people use car batteries to
heat the wire so they can pull them out, or grind them off and fillet right
over them, or all sorts of other techniques. Believe me, everything has
been done or tried, so you're going to find advice going in all directions.
Sam Devlin's instructions are the closest to correct, but even his
directions can be improved on. My personal opinion is that if you add one
extra step, that all those other discussions are moot. That extra step is
the use of epoxy 'tack welds' in between the stitches. They in effect
replace the stitches prior to doing any fillet or glass work prior to the
stitches being removed, and then the stitches can be removed at your leisure
with no risk to the boat. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about (from
my current project):
http://www.glacierboats.com/tongass/...5-0533_img.jpg
Here's a summary on materials and a suggested order of events for doing the
stitching etc:
Stitching materials that DO work:
- Anything heavy enough to NOT break and that can be tied, twisted, or
otherwise held in place easily: Copper wire that is at least 16 gauge in
size, steel bailing wire (a bit stiff), nylon ties (various widths, see
picture above).
Stitching materials that DO NOT work:
- Anything light weight that is NOT strong enough: Aluminum wire, thinner
versions of copper or steel wire, or the smaller sizes of the nylon ties
Order of events:
- Drill and stitch panels, but leave them a little on the loose side
- Square and level the assembly as appropriate to guarantee that the boat is
square and level
- Tighten the stitches
- Double check square and level
- Add 'tack weld' epoxy between stitches (epoxy thickened with wood flour or
silica etc). On areas where the bends are hard, 'tack weld' on the inside
and outside of the seams (both sides)
- Remove the stitches (clip and pull)
- Build the required fillets, tape the seams, etcetera as specified in your
plans
Some people will disagree with me, but note that it's likely because they've
"always done it this way" (whichever way they are doing it) and have had
good luck. That's completely fine too and you'll likely discover your own
route to success. I'm just saying that what I do does work well and you can
try it if you want ,..or not. It's all fun!
Have fun,
Brian
"Taavi" wrote in message ...
Hello.
I have a question about stitch and glue.
I have been reading about it for some time now but I donīt understand one
thing.
After you have stiched the panels.
http://bateau2.com/images/stories/ho...D_w_Frames.jpg
And then glued and glassed everything.
Do you then take the stitches out? Because they will be visible under the
glass.
Or donīt they? And if you are going to sand it then you will sand off the
glass
from top of them.
Taavi