If the wood is sound but just wet, let it dry. Heat will help.

There are thinned epoxy products which were developed and marketed
principally for firming up architectural trim so that it would hold paint.
The WEST System people have done extensive tests on the strength and other
physical properties of thinned epoxies and concluded that they are
substantially weaker than un-thinned epoxy.

If it's still punky, i would assume zero strength for the epoxified rot and
ask myself whether the spar would be as strong as designed if the punky
material were gone. If so, have fun. If not, the sharpen your chisels
and learn to fit a dutchman. For larger pieces of spars, the taper should
be quite long (12:1).


"Paul Fearnley" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have stripped the varnish from my spars to replace with Sikkens
Marine. In one or two areas where the varnish was damaged the surface
of the wood appears a bit damp and soft; not sufficiently so to believe
that it is rot. When I sand it it tends to "tear".

Will this dry out if left, or do I need to do something before applying
Sikkens?

Any advice grafefully received.