Ed Edelenbos wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi
No doubt you use Jim's suggestion, that's the way.
But before you get a router please learn the basic when using it ---
the basic are that when moveing the routher forverts youtr "land" are
supposed to be on the left side of it, --- that's if you run the
router along a plank then it must be on your left side moving the
router forverts.
If you use the build in paralell land and move the router "forverts"
that's away from you, then that land offcaurse must be resting on the
edge at the left of the router.
You see a router tend to move to the left when you move it away from
you caused by the rotation of the bit ,it sort of draw the router to
one side, and if you don't know this then you often ruin your
materials ----- on the other hand this is what any profesional know,
the router stay in place if you have the land on the right side but
go wild into the wood when you try move it the opposite way whare
that motion can not be stopped by the land --- sorry this is the
best my limited knowleage of english allow me to advise on this, but
it's the most important thing about hand held routers ; you don't
hold them by hand but place the land on the right side and move the
router in the right direction compared to that.
I guess it depends on the size of the piece. If it were small enough
(4'x4' at a time) I would probably just use a table saw. If using a
router for a larger piece, a simple guide bar clamped on for each
pass would do it.
Personally, I would use neither a saw nor router. Trying to fill
grooves in plywood so they look decent without sanding could be an
exercise in frustration. Even if the "seams" were taped. And there
isn't near enough meat in ply face veneer to do any worthwhile sanding.
Use ply "as is", buy ply with the phony seams or use solid wood and
caulk. But if you do try it (or use solid wood) use the polysulfide
that Conlin suggested. Ditto the epoxy on cut edges.
--
dadiOH
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