On Fri, 02 Dec 2005 20:45:25 -0500, Larry wrote:

Marc wrote in news:icn1p154hlstmjnpe0pl1io0mrr3lrlmhe@
4ax.com:

10ga. wire from the buss to the panel. Any downside to that?



10 ga is good for about 20 amps. Let's not have the lights dim every
time you turn on something else, or the bilge pump comes on, ****ing off
the wife. Let's just go whole hog and put in a heavy #4 or #2 ground bus
to battery post cable so it won't drop any voltage just because someone
switches on a fan.

Shhh....don't tell anyone. Lionheart's ground uses a #0 finely stranded
primary wire used by those boombox boys pulling a thousand amps in their
huge car stereos. The wiring used for these custom car stereo
installations is the finest heavy cable and is VERY flexible, not stiff
like the cheap battery cable crap from a marine store you can hardly bend
with 2 hands. The lights only dim a little when the windlass is under a
strain...(c;

Interesting, thats what I use when feeding breakers in a door. very,
very flexible, perfect when the door opens and closes.Not heard of
others using it before
The only downside is one needs "bellmouthed" crimp lugs as trying to
insert in standard chamfered lugs is a PITA

Another great cable to use for these very heavy cables is WELDING CABLES
available from welding supply places. It isn't as "pretty" as car stereo
cable, but is rugged enough to withstand constant commercial use in
welding for years and years.

I always use Welding cable for battery connections. The flexibility
allows access for top up.

I just happen to have a stash of car stereo cable pieces when I need
them, or I'd be using finely stranded, flexible welding cable, myself.
Me likewise!

Richard

Nb "Pound Eater" Parkend G+S