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Garland Gray II
 
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Default Throughhull with back flow preventer?

This is what I was going to suggest. I have made flaps like this out of a
real heavy dacron material (about 3 inches wide, and the name of which
escapes me at the moment) I got from a sailmaker,

"Roger Derby" wrote in message
nk.net...
The Chebacco I'm building has an anchor storage space forward of the first
bulkhead. The inside "sole" is above the waterline, so I intend to bore a
3/4" diameter drain hole, and staple the center from a Pringle can lid on
the outside as a flap valve. Suitable shims will pretty up the forward
edge and bias the flap closed. It should drain faster than it floods if I
do it right. It will be a couple of inches above the waterline most of
the time if she floats on her lines. Cheaper and easier to clean than a
ball valve.

The bailer on my Sunfish was frozen shut when I got it and has never been
opened. A butchered plastic milk jug moves the water out quite well. A
cheap sponge finishes it dry if that's required. I would have removed it
to get rid of the lump on the bottom, but that's not allowed by the racing
committee.

Roger

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:8%N9f.30$ii.25@dukeread04...
Rutu has 3 small lockers built into he swim platform for snorkeling
equipment. It will be impossible to keep them dry so the side lockers
drain into the center one and I was planning to install a small bilge
pump. I am now thinking that a throughhull drain would be simpler and
more reliable but the drain will be only about 2" above the water line.
Any little swell at anchor will push water back up into the locker. I
have seen 1 1/2" cockpit drains with a ball float that seal when below
the water line but they are to large. Has anyone seen a similar device
in the 3/4" to 1" range?