Simple answer to that is to add valved tee connectionIn to the intake
line and drain cocks teed to a common. Just drain the raw to the
bilge, saving if antifreeze into a bucket. simply, suck the antifreeze
back in when shutting down.


article , Steve
wrote:

I agree and don't drain my engine unless I plan to lay it up with
anti-freeze.

As I mentioned in my reply to Richard, I have provisions for pumping
anti-freeze into the cooling jacket, if I were in a colder climate or didn't
keep a heater going in the winter.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions


"Rich Hampel" wrote in message
...
Sorry but 'drying' a cast iron engine will greatly shorten the service
life. What happens is that the cast iron begins to form 'slab rust'
.... huge plateletts of ferric rust that propagates between the natural
'laps' of the casting. Cast iron, due to the way it cools when molded
is similar to an 'onion' ... and the ferric corrosion (usual severe
rust) will rapidly develop between the 'laps' and form ferric rust ,
develop extreme pressure between the natural 'laps' and begin to
destroy the casting. If you keep the engine 'wet' (using such things
as antifreeze with rust inhibiters0 this process is greatly retarded.
Cast iron is a good metal vs. sea water as the high operating
temperature produces 'ferrous' rust ... a blue/black oxide that
actually protects against ferric rust.

The moral of this story is dont 'air-dry' your engine by draining all
the water out ..... put in a mixture of water and antifreeze - and
this will keep the protective 'ferrous' layer intact. Otherwise,
expect to develop pin holes and leaks in short order.

hope this helps.