A nit maybe, but maybe confusing -- "running" refers to a point of sailing
where you are blowing downwind. The sail is not working as an airfoil.
When one is heading into the wind, or reaching across it, the sail is an
airfoil. The only difference between reaching and beating (or "sailing full
and by" or "tacking" or ... ) is that when you are reaching, the bow is
pointed where you want to go. Beating to windward is a technique for
getting upwind from where you are by zig-zagging across the wind.

"Full and by" -- order to helmsman to keep the sail(s) full and set one's
direction by the wind's direction. The boom should never be brought further
inboard than the corner of the transom.

To "depower" the sail safely one lets it luff (flap at the edge next to the
mast). It's somewhat hard on the sail if kept up too long, but it's better
than capsizing. The bow of the boat needs to be pointing closer than ninety
degrees to the wind's source. (One can luff when on a broad reach, but it's
too easy to end up on a run (see below). Move the tiller to head up into
the wind, then luff.)

Running before the wind is dangerous and jibing and/or broaching is very
easy when running. If you broach, you will probably capsize. If you jibe,
either you will probably break part of the boat or the head of someone in
the cockpit. If you are running downwind and the sail lifts (starts to come
toward you -- beginning of a jibe), meet the boom with the tiller, NOW.
Running demands more attention from the helmsman than any other point of
sail, but it feels so safe and easy because the boat's speed reduces the
apparent wind.

Note that the amount of sheet trim is dependent on the point of sail.
Beating, one can make a significant difference with an inch or two of trim.
Running, the sheet adjustments are measured in feet.

A somewhat advanced skill is sailing backwards. If the boat is moving thru
the water stern first, point the RUDDER where you want the stern to go.
(This is usually the opposite of the tiller.) This is useful if you get
caught "in irons;" i.e. pointed into the wind without enough forward speed
to carry you on thru onto the other tack. One should not use this too close
to rocks or anchored boats. Practice in light airs.

If you want to drop the sail, first turn the boat's bow into the wind. Then
release the halyard. If the sail/boom goes into the water, it becomes a
very effective sea anchor and steering is impossible. It's a kerfluffle
either way, but if the sail can be kept in the boat, you have a chance of
controlling it.

Rig one or more "tell tales" to let you see the direction of the apparent
wind. I make mine out of stainless fishing leader and discarded cassette
tapes. A lifetime supply of tape can usually be found by the side of the
road within a very short drive. One telltale goes on the mast head for
running. Two more go on either side of the boat for reaching. (The one on
the masthead quickly generates a stiff neck.)

Note sailing in very light airs demands much more skill than sailing with a
decent breeze. It's harder to tell the difference between the true and the
apparent wind, and it's easy to mistake a lull for a header.

Keep at it. You'll never learn it all, but once things begin to fall into
place, it's the best way to live.

Roger

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm

"Matt Colie" wrote in message
...
Your thought - though - is mostly correct, but unload the main by running
(releasing) the sheet (yes - the main will get flogged - sorry). You might
also trim the jib about as flat as you can to carry you as close to the
wind as possible. We are talking about little boat survival sailing here
and style points don't count until you are safe. It is important that you
maintain enough headway to have control of the boat, because as soon as
you do not have control the weather will.

You DO want to run into the wind. It is less likely to get you into
trouble because you can go back during the lulls.