Hello JR, & JamesgangNC,
I guess I was looking for someone who knew the answer. I'm well aware of
slotted holes, and a opposite hole that acts as a pivot point. I was able to
get to the alternator and do the 'ol pivot maneuver quite easily.
The Bayliner 2655 is a sunbridge that has a queen size berth just in front
of the engine. In fact it is only about 6" in front of the engine. As I
mentioned, an aftermarket fresh water cooling system has been installed. It
has a horizontal 3/16" steel plate that is attached in 3-4 places with 8"
long bolts that go through spacer tubes. You got it, I can't even remove one
of them because they hit the queen berth wall when you try to extract them.
I would have to disassemble the whole fresh water cooling system with the
resultant screwing around with antifreeze, hoses, etc. This plate is
partially in front of the water pump pulley and on top of it all is the
fresh water tank. The view is extremely limited, with me having to feel
around for slotted holes. I have not been very successful.
I have these big square fingers that can hit 5,6 even 7 keys at one time as
I type this. There are cracks and crevices in the front of the engine that I
can't even get my hand near them, let alone a look see. That might be why
someone invented the extension and the swivel for my 3/8" and 1/2" drives.
I usually like to do my homework first, before I just start ripping
sub-components out of a mechanical system. It saves a lot of gear thrashing.
Sort of like the old adage, "measure twice, cut once". This approach is
quite opposite my MO of my teen years.
So...I was looking for expertise that goes beyond knowing about slots and
pivot holes, which, for me, were discovered on a 283 in a 1957 Chevy in
1966. In my Dodge diesel newsgroup, you have quite a few mechanics that
participate with a great wealth of "hands on" knowledge. I have seen
instances where they can tell you what size socket is required.
I do appreciate both of your responses, which appear to be at my current
level of understanding. I'm still looking for the guy who's been there, done
that. It may be the participant base in this group is to small to include
someone who has experience with 1988 OMC 460's in a Sunbridge with an
aftermarket fresh water cooling system with the need to replace both v belts
that obviously are 17 years old.
I thought my question was pretty simple, do I need to keep feeling around
for a third bolt holding the pump to the bracket so that I can pivot the
pump, or do I need to work on loosening the bracket as it is the member that
pivots? Incidentally, two of the bracket bolts have been replaced with the
longer fresh water cooling mounting bolts. Like I said, this is quite a busy
part of the engine in an extremely confining space.
Thanks....dave
"JR North" wrote in message
...
Quit whining. There will be a slotted bracket at the top or bottom of the
pump or pump bracket. This will have a bolt securing the adjustment.
At the other end, a long bolt, usually going through the pump or bracket
to the other side, is what the pump pivots on for adjustment. Find the
slotted member and proceed.
JR
CommanderDave wrote:
Hello All,
My v belt for the power Steering unit broke. I am having a hell of a time
figuring how to loosen the pump so I can install new belt. I got a line
drawing, and it seems to suggest that I loosen the whole bracket that
bolts
to the block, and pivot it to get the new belt on and tighten. Can anyone
confirm this? This engine has a fresh water cooling system installed
above
the Water pump, v-belts and part of the power steering unit making it a
struggle to see what is doing what. Maybe I'm whining now. In any case if
anyone could give me directions I would much appreciate it.
Thanks...dave
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