I correct that from instead of pounds to % of ultimate breaking
strength. 12-15% is normal for standing rigging (not including the
force needed to 'pre-bend the mast) and 20-25% for max. backstay
tension while sailing.
Simply check the wire diameter then go to a boat supply catalogue and
check the Ultimate tensile strength, etc. Obviously you need a gauge
or 'other knowledge' to determine the %.


..In article , rhys
wrote:

On Tue, 19 Jul 2005 19:10:41 GMT, "Roger Long"
wrote:

That's actually the working jib on our very first sail when we were
satisfied to just get the sails up. We were just getting out of the
harbor traffic and hadn't started fiddling with anything yet.
Couldn't get any tension on the jib halyard either at that point.

I think I'm convinced now to keep the tensioner. A whole lot is
obviously good and not having everything that tight 24/7 at the dock
is probably worth the inconvienience of climbing around it.

Get a Loos gauge or equivalent and check your stay tension. A 30
footer of that vintage *might* have 1/4" stays, but they are more
likely 7/32" or something in that area. Off the cuff, I would say you
want about 1,200 lbs of tension in the forestay, 1,000 in the
backstay, 800 on the uppers and 600 on the lowers, but I'm
extrapolating backwards from a longer boat with "old-school" 1/4"
stays that take a lot of tension and benefit accordingly.

In my experience, sail rig tuning is only done properly 1 out of 3 or
4 cruising boats, with most of those being too slack. Mast rake is
also crucial: an inch WILL make a difference in some cases.

Racers and dinghy sailors are tuning mavens: ask one if its a matter
of experience.

R.