The problem with tung oil is that most of the tung oil products on the
retail market today are not pure tung oil. They have tung oil as a
major component but have other additives, primarily varnish. Don't
expect the product you buy across the retail counter to be pure. And
please don't be fooled by the phrase "contains pure tung oil". If this
line is on the can, you can bet money it contains something else in
addition to the 'pure' tung oil. If you use oil on your gunwales, the
last thing you want on them is varnish.
Tung oil is one of the most water-resistant oils. However, in its pure
form it takes five to six coats to build up the water resistance.
Also, it requires sanding between each coat.
Boiled Linseed oil is also water resitant, but further more it is a
preservitive. Some of the problems with straight linseed oil, boiled
or raw, a
- No UV (ultraviolet) light resistance
- Linseed oil is mildew food
- Linseed oil does not harden sufficiently (could be an accet)
- Difficult to remove from wood... Multiple coats of linseed oil are
gummy and difficult to remove fully
There is an othe drawback to Boiled Linseed oil, and that is printed
on the lable: "Use of this product will expose you to arsenic,
beryllium, chromium, cadmium and nickel, which are known to cause
cancer; and lead which is known to cause birth defects and other
reproductive harm."
There is an other anomaly with linseed oil. When linseed oil dries, it
releases heat. The more linseed oil, the greater the heat. A pile of
rags or paper towels soaked with linseed oil can actually start
burning without warning, leading to the manufacturer's warning that
all oil-soaked rags should be stored under water in a covered, metal
container.
So, what do you do? It's up to you. I use "raw" linseed oil with
mineral spirits and Japan drier. Tutrpentine will also speed the
drying of linseed oil. Like the captin said,"What good is putting a
preservative on your deck in the spring if you wouldn't be able to use
it till the fall?"

BTY "Boiled" linseed oil is not boiled. The actual boiling of some
oils changes their drying characteristics, true. With linseed oil,
though, it is the addition of certain solvents that causes linseed oil
to dry more quickly, acting as if it were boiled. This makes it a
better product for preserving wood.

"Michael Daly" wrote in message
...
| On 19-Jul-2005, "Fred Klingener" wrote:
|
| I'll slop
| the wales with a homebrew mix of turpentine + boiled linseed oil.
|
| Use tung oil - better water resistance than BLO.
|
| Mike