Normally I use epoxy and a suitable filler to make it thick (gap
filling) or make it stick to horizontal surfaces so it wont run. How
ever I did find this interesting recipe for marine glue on a search of
the web....

"This composition is said to be composed of 1 part indiarubber, 12
mineral naphtha or coal tar heated gently, and 20 parts of shellac,
mixed with it. The composition is now usually employed to stop the
seams of decks after they are caulked. The old fashioned plan was to
use white lead putty for the stopping and indeed it is at this present
time occasionally used the objection to it is that it dries as hard as
a cement and cracks, the result being that water gets into the
caulking, rots it, and then leaky decks are the consequence. Moreover,
hard putty is very difficult to get out of the seams without damaging
the edges of the plank, and then in re-stopping ragged ugly seams are
the result. Marine glue, on the other band, can easily be renewed, and
the edges of the plank remain uninjured.

In using marine glue the following practice should be observed : In
driving the oakum or cotton thread (the latter is sometimes preferred
as it can be laid in finer strands, a matter of consideration if the
plank is closely laid) into the seams, the caulking iron Should be
dipped in naphtha and not in oil, as, if the sides of the plank are
touched with the latter the glue will not adhere ; naphtha, on the
other hand, dissolves the glue and assists in closely cementing the
seams. The plank should be quite dry when the glue is applied, or it
will not adhere to the sides of the seams. The glue should be
dissolved in a pot, and applied by lip ladles used for paying, two
being kept going; or the glue can be melted in the lip ladles. Great
care must be taken that the glue is melted slowly, as if it be melted
over too fierce a fire it will be spoilt. A little of the liquid glue
can be usefully mixed with the other as it assists in keeping it
dissolved. The glue that runs over the sides of the seams should be
cleaned off with a broad sharp chisel and remelted. It is not
advisable to scrape the surplus glue off the seams, as it cannot be so
removed without leaving a ragged, unsightly surface."

Now, as you are making a dory, of the style of a Grand Banks dory is
it possible that you will be using pine planks? Epoxy works well on
plywood, thin strips, and anything that is encapsulated and will not
expand and contract, such as do planked boats. However, if the
required "marine glue" is to be used to laminate or construct
structural members, than it will surely do the job, but don't try to
use it to edge glue planks together on the bottom or the sides. If you
are going to go with epoxy, don't use the hardware version tub stuff,
get the industrial strength stuff. I use G1 or G2 Epoxy depending on
what I'm gluing up, unless I am encapsulating, then I use West Systems
slow cure, because I'm old and never did move fast.
http://www.vexcel.ca/eg2epoxy.htm
http://www.westsystem.com/

That's my two cents worth.

Shawn

wrote in message
ups.com...
|I am in the process of building a bankers dory. The Bill of
Materials
| calls for Marine Glue.
|
| My partner wants to use an epoxy instead. Anyone been down this
road
| before?
|