Terry Spragg wrote:
Please see sorrection in my text below [full loop] If you want, try
a single half hitch as a loop, and seize it with plenty of sewn
thread. -TK
Red CloudŽ wrote:
On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 00:33:55 -0500, sherwindu
wrote:
Hi Gordon,
I think the best knot for attaching sheets is no knot, at all. I
have an 'eye' woven
into the middle of my sheets, to which a snap shackle is attached.
For quick and clean
attachment/removal, I don't think any knot can beat that.
I once saw a setup like that on a smaller keelboat owned by somone who
was very
new to sailing. He ended up having a somewhat bad day when coming
about in 15+
knot winds. The snap shackle on his 130% genoa snapped itself around a
shroud as
it dragged across. You can imagine the rest.
rusty redcloud
A carabiner or other snap in shackles are bad news for jib sheets, as
thet will grab anything they hit right: shrouds, forestays, other lines,
whatever.
A proper snap shackle has a hinged, curved end which snaps reluctantly
over a locking pin. It is opened by retracting the pin. The keeper on
the end of the spring loaded pin can catch a shroud and open the shackle.
[not to mention bashing your face when it flogs -tk]
A granny or bowline is the best sheet knot, neither get caught on
shrouds much. Tie appropriate sheets to every jib and re-reeve them
through the fairleads most appropriate for that sail. Most jib changes
will involve a better suited lead, inside the shrouds or outside, etc.
Seizing a simple half loop [should read "full loop" -tk]through the cringle is best, and can be
removed by cutting the seizing sewn through the lines. It does not hang
up on anything, if you are artful with the seizing.
If you must use a shackle, use a regular twist pin chain style shackle
with a flat headed, knurled pin or a halyard spring lock captive pin
shackle with a modest twist lock knob.
Seems to me I saw an experimental setup once that used a u shaped
plastic thing snapped loosely through the clew. It had a groove around
it's neck's half-ends, which snapped inside the sheet clip. A retracting
collar on the clip loosened a ball bearing lock, like on a ball lock
pin. The sheet snap was siezed onto the doubled sheet. Very sleek
looking. Still, the y where the two sheets diverge can get hung on a
shroud. Costly. Not cost effective, even in plastic, IMHO. A hinged
metal thing would be stronger than ten years in the sun plastic. Costlier?
Tacking a lot is a bitch, if you don't have a self tending jib sail of
appropriate size, sheeted close inboard and capable of driving the boat
near hull speed (ahem!) upwind in a moderate breeze when flying in
formation with the right main. Reef early. With a self tacker, you just
steer to tack. Most big fore sails are way too big, bagged out, sheeted
outside, cannot go to windward well unless the wind is exactly the right
strength. The rail should never go under much, except in gusts. At high
hull speeds, the apparrent wind is too strong, bagging out all but the
very best rigs and brand new giant jibs, which act like a brake and a
weight, heeling you.
To windward you need some torque for accelleration but as speed
increases, you need flat sails closely sheeted. You will always have
too much wind if you have too much sail. Fall off a bit if you lost
speed in the turn, regain speed, and harden up.
Terry K
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