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Why use construction adhesive? Use resin to glue it to the outside glass of
the transom. Cut the 2 pieces at a 45 degree angle and lay some resin
across the joint.
"Chris" wrote in message
...
I'd like some opinions on this, I got the plywood already, and am going to
be cutting the 2 pieces for the transom shortly. These will have to be
glued together which I can do with the use of premium construction
adhesive, and screws. I was thinking of then coating the entire plywood
with a layer of poly... fiberglass resin to which I would then apply the
premium construction adhesive and glue it to the inside of the outer skin
of the transom. From there I can glass in the inner skin, and glass the
edges into the rest of the boat.
How does that sound?
I suspect by doing the above, the plywood will be well sealed, and will be
permanently in place against the inner part of the outside skin. The
strength should be there, and the water shouldn't be able to get into the
wood.
??
"Michael Gardner" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Chris" wrote:
Taking the advice of "This old house", I've done a tear down job for
"This
old boat".... Lets see, I cut 3 feet of the top half off to get at the
transom from above. What I found while taking all of this top off was
interesting. Wet wood, and more wet wood. The very tops of the two
sides
were dry, but it wasn't more than 6 inches down when the wood seemed
wet.
Not to mention, upon removing the hardware, almost every bolt or screw I
took out had visible deterioration wherever it was in the transom. For
example; the ski hooks would have been interesting, I could see a skier
stuck with all the rope.. ha ha.
I've now got all the old plywood out of the transom (2 - 3/4 inch
pieces),
and I'm going to clean / prep the area for the rebuild. It would seem
logical at this point to take the advise of putting in whole pieces
rather
than parts. Clearly, without opening the top of this fiberglass pop can
I
would have never been able to get to take the transom apart.
http://www.rotdoctor.com/glass/transom/at.html
"William Andersen" wrote in message
news:IrOre.312$X71.105@fed1read07...
There was a show called Ship Shape a few years ago - I don't think
it's on
anymore. It was like This Old House: each week they did a project or
an
update on a continuing project, and visited a factory for boat stuff
or
had a manufacturers rep at the boat yard to demo a product. It was
pretty
interesting.
"Auerbach" wrote in message
...
Great idea for a reality TV show: "This Old Boat."
They wouldn't need to do a different boat each week, because one
aging
vessel would keep them busy season after season!
"William Andersen" wrote in message
news:YTCre.200$X71.151@fed1read07...
When I first watched This Old House on TV I was impressed by how
easy
they made most jobs look. Then I realized that one of the things
that
made those jobs easy was that they didn't try to work around
existing
structures, furniture and possessions: they gutted the space they
were
working in and started the project anew.
Remove the outboard and get serious about removing rotten wood
before
starting any repairs. You'll save a lot of time and it will be
easier to
work.
"Steve Weingart" wrote in message
.. .
"David Flew" wrote in
:
I agree with what David is saying here... Remove the O/B if you
are
going to do major work... But, that said... On my Mako, I had a
similar
circumstance where the wood in a triangle about a foot tall and 2
feet
wide at the bottom of the transom was completely rotten. The upper
18"
of the transom was completely solid. I drained the water and
sealed
the
leaks, then watched it closely for flexing for two years prepared
to do
the repair job. It was still solid when I sold the boat.
BTW, that pourable stuff is not for putting in through small
holes...
You remove the skin at the top of the transom and dig out ALL of
the
wood. You are left with the two skins. You plug all of the holes
and
put some plywood on the outside of both sides as a temporary
support
then fill up the transom with the sea-cast material. It sets, then
you
have a permanent wood-free transom. Redrill the engine mounting
holes
and remount the O/B. Check out the website, it's got a ot of useful
info
(just for truth in advertising's sake: I have no relatoinship with
those folks whatsoever, I just did a bunch of research on that
product
and it looked like a great thing).
- Fixing transoms is not an area I'm involved in, but looking at
it
from a
long way away I'd say you can't do a proper job with the outboard
still in place. My experience in cutting out rot is that it's
easier
to cut out a complete piece of wood and replace it rather than cut
out
10% and try to fit something to fill up the hole. Wish I'd known
this
a while back.
- Any time you spend in removing and replacing the outboard will
be
saved
several times over by the time you are done.
- you need to do ALL the demolition before you start to do the
repair
(
it's true of most things ) It's no more work to patch a little
more
area than it is to fill several more holes.
- with the motor off and the demo done, try a small electric fan
heater
under a cheap tarp - 24 hours at 30 degrees C does a lot of
drying.
But control the temperature, too hot and it will be too dry. It
takes
time for moisture to migrate to the surface where it can
evaporate.
- read and believe the info from the epoxy suppliers
David
"Chris" wrote in message
...
I'm trying to dry the transom out a bit before I dig further into
it.
Clearly several days won't be enough, and who knows if weeks will
ever as long as it is outdoors. So, I may have to get digging
into
it sooner, regardless of the still wet wood.
To recap, I've got almost 1 foot square cut out around the drain
hole
(drain hole and up), which was the really punky stuff. I've also
got
1/4" holes drilled in various places on both sides to checkout
the
wood. (note that pouring something in won't likely help here
with it
exposed and open now).
The outer hull is thick, really thick (fiberglass), but the inner
side is almost done 3/4 the way up and pretty thin, I don't even
think it adds strength.
Currently the motor is still mounted (however many pounds of it).
To visualize the transom on this boat, consider the typical
outboard
transom, but on a V type hull. Inside under where the motor
mounts
(centre), there looks like there is a big timber there, such as a
rough cut 2" x 4", or maybe 2x6 or 2x8. Its hard to tell as I
suspect it may go all the way through to the outer hull and be
glued
in. Below this timber about 2-3 inches down are the other motor
engine bolts that tie it in lower. And below this for the next
1.5
feet perhaps is the area of the drain plug. To each side of this
the
floor is elevated clearly due to the V, as well the solid wall
(inner/outer fiberglass) goes up higher to the full length of the
transom. I can actually see plywood near the top as it wasn't
covered in glass.
I suspect so far that the wood beneath the timber is rotten, and
likewise straight across from there on both sides. Above that
things
appear strong and solid, and a few drill holes have proved that
there's nothing punky there.
So, I either take the outboard off now, or leave it on. My guess
is
to clear the wood from under the timber level all the way to
both
sides, and then put new wood in right across. Glass it in, and
to
finalize it, glass a 2x4 or 4x4 to the outside of this new area
(to
the inner transom, and floor).
Now it'll be strong. What do you think?
"Steve Weingart" wrote in message
.. .
If the transom is suspect, check out
http://www.transomrepair.com,
they have a whole system for removing all of the wood in the
transom
and then filling the space with a pourable resin/chopped filler
system. I was going
to use this in my 21' Mako (the Mako factory approved), but sold
the
boat before it needed the work (just had a few rotten spots, but
the
majority of
the transom has still been strong).
Cheers,
--
Steve (remove anti spam XYX in return address for correct
email)
http://www.gulf-stream.net/patandsteve
--
Steve (remove anti spam XYX in return address for correct email)
http://www.gulf-stream.net
--
sig goes here
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