I'm not an expert, but I did find a few tricks that work. Once you've
cranked enough to get the oil pressure up, spray WD-40 into the air inlet.
Continue spraying until the engine driven fuel pumps have purged the lines.

Auto diesels are different, so maybe you don't have to, but both the old
Volvo MD7B I bought to play with and the Polish tractor I use to mow like to
have the injectors bled if there has been any interruption in the fuel
supply. Just unscrew the high pressure lines where they attach to the
injectors. One turn or less should do it. You'd think you could wait while
the air stopped and your induced leak was just spraying fuel, but I found
the pressure to be so high that it was easier to just wait a few seconds and
then tighten it back down. Don't get your face or hand in the path of the
high pressure spray!

Remember! Turning off the "ignition" does NOT stop the engine. If there's
no cut-off on the injector pump that you can flip/pull/twist, be ready to
put a piece of plywood over the air intake. Do NOT use your hand! A few
years ago someone on this list told of starting a boat engine on his garage
floor and watching in horror as it bounced across the floor burning off the
fuel in the lines. A test stand is worth the labor.

Roger

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm

"Capt John" wrote in message
oups.com...
Sal, starting a small diesel that has been laid up for a short period
of time is not like that of a gas engine. Unburned diesel left on the
cylinder walls keeps them from rusting. And because it's going to take
a little bit of time to start it because of having to prime the fuel
system, the bearings should get plenty of oil before it starts up. As
far as cooling, your going to have to get a wet exhaust manifold
fabricated for the engine, unless you want a dry exhaust, which I
wouldn't reccomend you making yourself. Your also better off getting
marine engine mounts and making braclets to fit the engine. As far as
the transmission, I would forget about the 5 speed, boat transmissions
are very differant, the automotive unit will probably not last very
long. This would eliminate the thrust bearing and CV joint as well.
Before I got too far into this you need to see if the engine is worth
using. How old is it? Does it burn oil or leak? For the size engine
your looking at, you could probably buy a used or rebuilt marine engine
and marine transmission for the same or less. Take a look at Ebay.