I'm not sure that there needs to be any snubbing in this arrangement.
For one thing, a 30 amp contact should easily handle the surge of 12 volt
bilge pump circuit being broken.
But mainly:
the relay connects across the hi level switch (after that switch has closed)
then when the hi level switch opens, the relay stays closed
and after the lo level switch opens (stopping the pump)
the relay opens.
So the relay never sees any starting or stopping load.

wot sort of switches are you using? I've had a terrible run with Rule. The
most reliable one I have sounds like it has a ball inside that runs along
and makes contact when the body tilts.

"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
I found LD1A-12F headlight/horn relays for six bucks at the auto
store and available here for less:

http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/catalogs/c252/P138.pdf

where I've ordered sockets with coil suppression diodes. The relays
are completely sealed and appear to be as watertight and ignition safe
as any marine unit. 30 Amp, 220 watts. It'll be a simple matter to
carry a spare and they can serve as the shut off switches if the pump
jambs.

I got the parts for the snubbers. Does the presence of the diode in
the socket change anything?

Many thanks for your help on this. It's what this group should be for
instead of worrying about who's pretending to be Peggie.

--

Roger Long