One word about the plastic flexicoupling they are not designed to correct
alignment.
All the powertrain has to be correctly aligned first. Before you do anything
check the cutlass bearing and the strut. If the cutlass bearing is loose
and the strut out of line, bent or not anchored properly these have to be
fixed using the proper sequence.
After years of misalignment on my boat and countless attempt to correct it
we used the following method:
With the boat out of the water the engine was taking out. The shaft was
removed. It was inspected. The shaft was found to be gouged by the set
screws inside the flange connecting it to the engine. This had for effect
to make alignment near impossible.
A new shaft was used. The connecting flange was properly mounted and
secured with the set screws on the new shaft with the proper key stock. The
shaft and the flange were set up on a lathe. Then the flange was machined
perpendicular to the shaft. After that the shaft with the flange already
mounted were pushed through the hull. Then the engine was installed in line
with the flange and the mountings adjusted.
After having the fiberglass boat in the water for about two weeks the
alignment was checked and minimum correction done.
In my opinion, it is best to have the shaft and flange machined together.
While you are at it you be rewarded to check the cutlass bearing and strut.
In extreme case you may have to replace the cutlass bearing and rectify and
strengthen the base of the strut. If you detect an hairline crack in the
strut welded repair is not recommended. Replacing with a new one is much
better.

"Graeme Cook" wrote in message
...
Hi Peter

We overhauled the gearbox and replaced the engine mounts on "Leonidas"
last year. This included the realigning of the engine mounts. We found
the process easier than suggested by Jere, Terry, Roger and Jeff.

We have engine mounts that are screw adjustable, and the front mounts
are at 45 degrees so that there is a small amount of latteral movement.
All are screw type adjustable like you have, and we also have a flexible
'Vetus' coupling on the propellor shaft. Because the coupling pad is
soft, you have to remove it while you do the alignment, and align the
metal to metal coupling surfaces.

We did the initial aligning on the hard, (we had to get the yacht back to
the marina on relaunching) and then realigned it in the water two weeks
later.

The process is as follows :

* remove flexible coupling pad and loosely screw metal coupling flanges
together. Prop shaft will slide both ways so you can remove the pad and
then couple the metal flanges together.

* With texture color mark four equally spaced reference points on the
flange. ie 90 degrees apart.

* With feeler gauges measure gap at each reference point and write
down the results. (This is important as you can see the results of each
adjustant, and it greatly shortens the process.)

* Think about ajjustment to be made and then turn one adjusting screw
one half a turn. Measure with feeler gauges and write down results.

* Continue untill you get same result on the feeler gauge at each
measuring point. (or within 3 thousandths of an inch.

* Tighten locking nuts on engine mounts, recheck with feeler gauges.
(Repeat if necessary). If OK reinsert flexible pad.

* After launching and vessel has settled down, then remove flexible
pad and recheck alignment.
Adjust if necessary, and refix pad.

We got Leonidas within 2 thou' on the hard, but she was about 11 thou out
when we rechecked her after she'd been in the water for two weeks.
Realignment took about five minutes plus another fifteen minutes each to
remove and reinsert the flexible coupling as the bolts were not easy to
reach.

Re- reading above, I think it was easier to do than explain. Its not a
difficult job. The only tools you will need are spanners, feeler gauge
set and a good light.

Fair winds

Graeme
sv "Leonidas"