My layup schedule has a layer of Kevlar on the inside waterline to waterline
from the bow to the fin keel. It is intended to give some impact
protection. Don't use it on the outside because if you sand into it while
fairing you are SOL. There is no way to bury the fuz without putting more
glass on top of it.

I tried all sorts of expensive specialty Kevlar shears with no luck. Found
that what works best is a $12 Fiskars searated blade shop shear from Home
Despot. The secret to cutting Kevlar is to keep it stretched tight. I have
two pieces of 2x2 covered with duct tape about 5' long. I lay the Kevlar
out flat on the table and lay one 2x2 across it in front of the roll and
clamp it down. Then clamp the other just past the cut line while pulling
the Kevlar tight. As you cut with the Fiskars, pull back slightly as the
blades close. You can cut a intricately and cleanly as you want between the
2x2s.

BTW, for cutting regular glass of all weaves and weights nothing, and I
really mean nothing, does the job as well as an Olfa Rotary cutter.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"SouthForkSam" wrote in message
ups.com...
Wooden drift boat builders have been using kevlar for a few years in
the construction of stitch and glue boats. The current technique is to
put the kevlar on the inside of the hull attacting as a reinforcement
for the floor as these boats are prone to bashing rocks.

I cut the kevlar for my boat using an angle grinder with a cut off
disk. Put masking tape over the area to be cut, draw you cut lines on
with a marker, lay the kevlar on a sacrificial piece of ply or other
cheap board and cut it with the cut off disk.