Lessons I've learned:

Don't let your resin cure in direct sunlight. You'll get lots and lots
of bubbles. Warmer temperatures increase cure times and are even
required on some resins. I speculated my issues have something to do
with the suns rays getting magnified and causing the top surface skin of
the epoxy to cure faster than the lower and air bubles not being able to
work their way out of the resin naturally.

Maybe it's written somewhere that I read and just forgot. I've read the
data about the wood temp contributing to bubbles and the best time of
day to work with resin. I personally never had any issue withs bubbles
at any temp as long as it was not in direct sunlight when layed up.

But placing it in direct sunlight within the first hour or two of cure
has given me bad results enough times I won't do it anymore.

I want to try curing in sunlight through a clear platic tarp to see if
that has any influence but have not opportunity. It's been warm in my
neck of the woods so I'll put the hull outside but in the shade until
it's no longer real tacky. Cures faster than my workroom and very few
bubbles. Then when it's just a little tacky (the epoxy surface is no
longer runny and will not deform with a soft touch), I'll move it to the
sun to speed up the rest of the cure.

--
Matt Langenfeld
JEM Watercraft
http://www.jemwatercraft.com/

wrote:

It is also very important to make sure the room you work in does not
get warmer after applying resin. This causes it to bubble. Also you
need to work at recommended temperatures. Usually between 60 and 90
degrees. Temperature regulates how thick your resin is as you apply
it. Too, cold, too thick and hard to work, too warm, it sets up fast
and you don't get much done before you need to refill. I like to stay
between 60 and 70 degrees F.

Don't try to push too hard when squeezing resin around, just try to
get excess. Don't try to go too fast, work the area for a little bit
to be sure and let the glass soak up all the resin it can.

Also it is easier to apply all glass cloth at once, but not critical.
Otherwise you will end up with more sanding, and bad edges because the
edge of the dried cloth you go over may stick up and make a rough edge
and more work later on cleaning up.

I know this sounds scary, but you will be amazed out how easy it is.
The only thing you can do wrong is not mix your resin correctly which
will make a never drying sticky mess you will have to clean up.
Everything else you do wrong can be fixed later.


On 13 Apr 2005 08:54:06 -0700, (Pagaie) wrote:


I have finished assembling my S&G Pygmy hull (Arctic Tern). I have now
to fiberglass it.
I have read the manual and also a lots articles and personal building
pages on the web, and I am still confused, fearing the fiberglassing
step.
Some call for painting epoxy prior to fiberglassing, some not.
Some use squeegee and bristle brush and others say rollers are the
best.
So, before doing it I'd like to have a final piece of advice from you
readers, the pros and cons of different fiberglassing approach and
tools.