BCITORGB wrote:
Michael says:
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Depending on the roof curvature, you might need a 2x6, but - don't
put the wood on the existing rack. Cut one side of the 2x6 to
match the curvature of the roof, cover with a layer of thin carpet
or strong, closed-cell foam and then rest it on the roof directly.
U-bolt it to the rack crossbar. Make one for each of the front
and rear crossbars.
================

WOW! Fantastic ideas.

THNX
Wilf

See, I knew Michael would have some good Ideas, especially the hockey
stick. You being into field hockey, might know where to find some of
those. We don't have so much ash down here. Cedar is also good idea!

The only consideration about fitting the 2x6 to the curve of the roof,
is that the roof supports inside the body run across the width of the
van. You would want to locate the 2x6 directly on one of these,
otherwise it would just be the skin of the van supporting the load. The
skin on these newer vehicles is so thin, it will easily bend, and you
will end up with a van with a concave roof. Not good where it rains a
lot!

Contrary to Michaels suggestion, I would still recommend that the
logitudinal runners of the existing stock rack, support the crossmember
whether 2x4 or 2x6. These longitudinal runners span from one body
support to another, and would spread out the weight of the load instead
of concentrating it in just one spot, or one body support. If the
existing rack collapsed under the load, you can more easily replace or
repair the rack, than straighten out the concave roof. Though I did
know one character that would regularly get inside his car, and laying
on his back, pop the roof back out with his feet. I personally have
trouble seeing you frtzw doing this, but then you have already
surprised me a few times!

This might lead you to consider adding a 2x4 runner to your home brewed
rack, that would run parallel to the existing runner, and the 2x4 cross
member would rest on and be attached to this runner which is bolted to
the standard runners. Carpet, or rubber strips on these runners will
protect the car paint from being worn through and leading to rusting of
the car body.

I noticed in your picture that there is quite a bit of overhang over
the roof of the van. You could extend these 2x4 runners further
forward, to the front of the van, so that the cross member could be
mounted as far forward as possible, and would allow for more support to
the kayak. I would hate to have you break the keel of the boat by using
just the short standard rack length.

Some would support the extended length with some foam on top of the
roof at the front of van. I saw a boat that had been setting out in the
sun, and then driven with road vibrations and wind load. Sadly the
whole thing had collapsed like a wet noodle down over the top of the
car, and to say the least, was beyond repair.

This is a bigger problem with the long poly boats like what you have.
That stern and bow line that you need to keep the boat on the rack, can
easily break its back. So snug is good, but not to tight!

Your report was great, and I look forward to more pictures. Include one
of your happy mug, to convince me though you're having a good time!

BTW you may begin to figure that I own stock in Greater Northwest
Lumber & 2x4 futures! grin

Some projects never end, they just lead to another! Especially if you
take very many showers!

For example, some find as they get "older" that the weight of the boat
gets harder to lift to the rack. Using this foundational rack that we
have in place, set up a small lift with pulley to pull kayak up onto
rack. I have a friend with a motorhome, that he developed such a
system. He has arthritis, and has trouble with the weight now, though
he still enjoys a short paddle. Red Green is waiting for you, TnT