BCITORGB wrote:
Hey, you guys have been great! I still don't have my solution, but I
think we're getting there.
In review, my own particulars a a '94 Ford Aerostar where dents
and
scratches are not an issue (Hell! It's an Aerostar! Was there ever a
cheaper van made?!), no commercial roof rack, just the thing that all
Aerostars come with, and a short (5'7"), stocky guy who can carry and
horizontal lift the 90 pound kayak to a height of about 4.5' (I've
not
tried clean-and-jerk... maybe after a few beer). After just two
trips,
I've just about perfected (and really like) the "front end on the
front
door" maneuver. BUT, Cyli's got me worried and thinking alternatives.
I think Tink has a point re the conduit; after all, it was made to be
bent. I went to the hardware store this morning and tried a bit of
pressure on the pipe and I was able to put a bit of a bend on it
without much effort. I then thought of going one dimension larger for
each of the pipes (greater diameter = more difficult to bend,
right?).
I would have purchased right away had it not been for the price. I
need
to find me an electrical shop that has "ends" (about 4-6 feet worth
of
ends) kicking about.
As an alternative (and it was something one of you said, I'm sure), I
could go very crude and very elemental (if the material strength is
up
to the task). Tell me what you think...
Two approx 7' pieces of 1X4. Place one lengthwise, on the left-hand
side of the van, under both roof rack crossbeams. Then, place the
other
1X4 under, and at 90 degrees to the first 1X4, with about 3' jutting
out over the right-hand side of the van for me to place the kayak on
(this piece would be secured, with rope, to the crossbeam to ensure
it
doesn't slip as the weight of the boat is placed on it).
Why 1X4? Because nothing thicker than 1" will fit under the
crossbeams
and still allow another timber to be placed under it.
Question to all you bright guys: will the 1X4 be strong enough to
hold
the kayak?
Cheers,
Wilf
I think you are right, we are getting there.
Starting with your roof rack, it is held on to the top of the van with
sheet metal screws, and kf you look carefully you will find a "Do Not
Exceed" label, which refers to the Max weight the rack can support.
Most are in the range of 100 lbs. This is somewhat misleading because
as you are driving down the road you could easily have several hundred
pounds of wind resistance trying to take the rack right off the top of
the car.
This happens every year here, we will read an article in the news about
someone losing their roof rack with Kayaks still attached, as they are
driving down the road. Happens with skis as well, and typically skis
would weigh much less than 100 lbs. For the record, put your skis on
the rack with them pointing to the rear. Again typically, it is when
the rack gets hit by a gust of wind as you are driving down the
highway, that the load limit will be exceded. The carnage that results
is not pretty, especially if it is your kayak, vehicle, or friends in
the following car that meet your flying load up close and personal.
There was a recent thread here or on RBP about how to properly tie your
boat on top of car. Basically, you need to use lines tied to bow and
stern, tied to the car structure proper. Like a hitch in back, the
front can be more problematic. Anyway check the thread, riverman had
some good experience recommedations.
Now as far as the need for the extension, it becomes clearer now. The
standard rack is inset in from the edge of the roof. Also being 57"
precludes you just lifting the boat on top of van. I am 74", and take
some things for granted. But then you can get into a smaller boat and
be comfortable. I get into my Overflow, which is one of the bigger WW
boats, and it becomes a squirt boat or submarine. To say nothing about
the fact that my feet are all scrunched up. I was reading that Wilko is
80" if I read it right, so I don't know how he does it. Will have to
ask him.
Anyway, back to your rack, I would look into using a 2x4, U-bolted on
top of the existing rack to the side runners, and allow the 2x4 to
extend out beyond the side of the van. You could also use 3/4 in
galvanized pipe that would resist the salt water better. The ends would
be threaded so that you can install end caps. You would not have either
of these extending beyond the side of the van further than 4". But if
they extended that far, you may be able to hook the end of the boat on
that. If not you may still have to work on an extention, but this would
give you a base to mount the extention on. See what you think of this,
TnT
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