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Rural Knight
 
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Default Just another potential new boat owner


wrote in message
...

First, a dumb question (I know, there are no stupid questions, only
stupid people):


Um......ok, never mind. ;)

What is a cuddy cabin?


Ah, well, it is generally considered a little covered space
ahead of the steering station. Usually a small V berth,
depending on the size of the boat, a chemical or portable toilet
is stored there for folk to use. Look at boats.com or eBay for
"cuddy cabin" and see what the different styles. Remember, a
center console can also have a smal berth along with a small
bathroom - I'm thinking of my Contender 32 here.

Second, I'm looking at getting a boat for next season.


A head start is always a good thing.

I'd like to spend under 10,000 TOTAL -- including registration,
insurance, fuel, launching, etc. Which means that the practical limit
is around 8K for a used boat, with 1K to outfit it with "stuff" -- life
vests, cheap skis, etc. Or a 3K boat and a season at the marina.

I have a lot of sailing and boating experience in California, mostly in
lakes, with some costal sailing experience also.

I live near Lake Michigan, so I am thinking Deep V or modified Deep V
for a hull type. I expect to take up to seven passengers (including me)
skiing, and a smaller number on overnight coastal trips. That means a
practical minimum of about 18' I think. My tow vehicle (Durango) is
limited to 4500 lbs, so that limits me to 23' max. I want it to be
seaworthy (i.e., safe), can pull novice skiiers and tubers, and --
ideally -- be capable of cruising 70 miles across Lake Michigan to
Chicago.


To my mind, you need to rethink a couple of things.

For one thing, towing a 23 foot boat with a Durango may be
a stretch. That 4,500 pounds is at the extreme limit of what
you CAN tow - doesn't mean that it will tow 4,500 pounds
comfortably or without any stress on the vehicle. Just pointing
that out - I'm not criticising Durangos, Fords, Chevies or any
other make/model. I am cricizing the way the manufacturers
market their vehicles for "towing" purposes. [1]

Secondly, seven passengers is a tight fit on an 18 foot boat
and somewhat better, but by no means significantly, on a 23
foot boat. Five people on my Contender is uncomfortable
and that's 32 feet long with a center console. Also consider
this - my inshore boat is a Ranger 200C (twenty foot center
console) and three people on that boat is about the comfortable
limit. I know somebody who has a boat like you are looking
for, a 1988 24 foot Marathon cruiser and I've been on it with
four people - I'll stay on shore thank you very much.

However, you have some time, so think about what it is
that you HAVE to have the boat do for you and list them
in priority most-to-least important. Then make a seperate
column for things you would LIKE it to do most-to-least
important.

This is important for a couple of reasons - it will pretty much
define the type of boat that you want for one thing and secondly,
will indicate how much you should be willing to spend achieving
the purchase.

What kind of power are you comfortable with - inboard with
outdrive, propeller/shaft driven or outboard.

Once you have developed a basic understanding of what it is
that you actually want, then everything else becomes easier.

I'm not interested in Bayliner. OK I'm interested, but I know better.
Sea Ray and Chris Craft seem to be popular brands I know.


You need to visit boats.com or iBoats.com and here are a
couple of links to some used/salvage companies in my area
to give you an idea of other brands.

http://www.northeastboatsales.com/

http://www.certifiedsales.com/itemsforsale.html


http://www2.yachtworld.com/core/list...ker&lin eonly

How should I do this?


See above.

Third, what is the value of these online boating classes?


As with anything, they are designed to give you a basic
understanding of boating and rules and regulations. However,
nothing beats a good old fashioned hands on USPS or USCG
Aux boating course done by those who know your waters and
marine situation. Here in CT we have a state run course which is
adequate - barely. You might want to try your state Registry or
DEP to see if they have state courses.

[1] The towing specs on most vehicles are misleading as they
don't take into account road conditions (like hills, rough roads,
braking, balance, etc) under real world conditions. The normal
towing specs are based on straight line, flat surface conditions
and not up/down a 4 percent grade for example. The advertising
you see about towing HUGE amounts of weight are BS - period.

I tow with a Ford F-250 Super Duty Diesel and will be glad to
tell you that is it adequate for both boats that I trailer - note
the
adequate.

You also have to consider launching and recovery when towing
a boat. If I had a dime for every boat w/trailer I've pulled up a
marginal ramp (or a damned good one for that matter) I'd be
richer by about $100 - it's not only traction that counts, it's
flat out yanking power.

The good news is that you can find good boats for less than
the money you are considering spending if you take your time,
develop a concept of what you REALLY need, and take your
time looking around. Remember not to be rash, make a good
judgment of your mechanical abilities and look for a boat.
If you find one, spend a couple of bucks and get a surveyor to
look it over - have a mechanic look at the engine, etc.

I know a guy who has a 23' Marathon, V berth, full (small) bath
small refrig and kitchen stove, outdrive with Mercruiser for $4,900,
spent $600 on new heads for the motor and loves it. Then again,
he looked around, took his time, visited quite a few boat dealers
and marinas/shows, developed a concept and found his boat.

Good luck on this - wish you all the best.

Take care.

Tom