Don't discard the idea of wood molds just because they char. Carbon
crucibles are common and wood sheathing is used in skyscrapers; e.g. the
Tribune Tower in Chicago to protect the steel from fire. You aren't going
to use the mold all that many times.

At the bottom of
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/Dayawl.html
is my weighting of the CB for my Chebacco. Since I goofed repeatedly, I got
to see the wood before and after pouring -- no significant change except for
color.

A cast iron pot or skillet might be better than an aluminum one. I've
slagged down an aluminum pot on an electric hot plate. Harbor Freight sells
some cheap ones from China.

I thought the whole process was kind of fun, but I was glad I was wearing
boots.

Roger

http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm

"Brian Whatcott" wrote in message
On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 19:29:03 GMT, "Andrew Butchart"
wrote:

I've come into possession of a quantity of lead wheel weights - about
70lbs
worth. I'd like to turn them into 10lb weights with an eyebolt on the
top.
One minor issue is that the weights were stored in an old grease pail and
so
are quite greasy.

As I see it I have three options:

- Melt it down and pour it into forms. The good thing with this, is that
the weights will be all lead. The bad thing is that I don't know how to
make forms - would wood be good enough, or old juice cans? Could I melt
the
lead on my BBQ - kitchen stove is out because of fumes of course. What
about the grease? Should I clean it off first? I'm not keen on this
method
because of all of the safety issues, but it give me the "best" and most
dense result.

- Use polyester resin and 1 litre cardboard milk cartons as a form to cast
a
weight. Would it hold together? Do I need to remove the grease from the
wheel weights?

- Put the weights into a large juice can and somehow seal up the top. I'd
worry about how solid this would be though.

Thanks

Lead melts around 328 degC
Paper and card char well below this.

Wood is in the same class, though the thicker, the more resistant.
I have used a brick form on concrete - the concrete tends to spall
explosive shards. Dry brick with fireclay seams could work for you.

Greasy lead will smoke badly, better wash it first? A soak in water
with Dawn detergent etc. Steel cans would hold up to casting temps.
They would probably be best?

Brian W