Thread: Lead Questions
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Steve Lusardi
 
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Andrew,
Having done this before, You can use "C" channel for molds You will need at
least 2 to make the process viable. You must be prepared to use a steel pot
large enough to melt all 70 lbs at the same time because of the grease. The
molds should have the dimensions of 4" x 2" x 1". That will give you
approximately a 10# weight. You will need to machine both ends of the 4"
long, 2" x 1" C" channel square. You can then close up the ends with flat
plates at least .250" thick. These should be held together with "C" clamps.
You should use a suitable gas burner to melt the lead. I use one from a tar
pot used for roofing. You can use a simple soup ladel to fill the mold flush
to the top. I suggest using a leveled aluminum plate to set the molds on.
This will aid in cooling the mold. Five minutes of cooling should cause the
lead to solidify. Cool the mold in water befor reuse. This reduces cycle
time.
Steve

"Andrew Butchart" wrote in message
...
I've come into possession of a quantity of lead wheel weights - about
70lbs
worth. I'd like to turn them into 10lb weights with an eyebolt on the
top.
One minor issue is that the weights were stored in an old grease pail and
so
are quite greasy.

As I see it I have three options:

- Melt it down and pour it into forms. The good thing with this, is that
the weights will be all lead. The bad thing is that I don't know how to
make forms - would wood be good enough, or old juice cans? Could I melt
the
lead on my BBQ - kitchen stove is out because of fumes of course. What
about the grease? Should I clean it off first? I'm not keen on this
method
because of all of the safety issues, but it give me the "best" and most
dense result.

- Use polyester resin and 1 litre cardboard milk cartons as a form to cast
a
weight. Would it hold together? Do I need to remove the grease from the
wheel weights?

- Put the weights into a large juice can and somehow seal up the top. I'd
worry about how solid this would be though.

Thanks

--
Andrew Butchart