Agressive .......
Do all gel restorations in 2 ft. X 2 ft. sections, just keep it moving
at all times and DONT press it - use a light touch, let the grit of the
compound do all the work. For severe restoration its sometimes better
to 'flat sand' first with fine 1000, 1300 or 2000 grit wet/dry paper
and soapy water first, then remove the sanding haze with a buffer and
superfine grades of polishing compound. Stay away from the
'boat-store' compounds (exception: 3M ultra fine fiberglass polishing
compound); super fine auto body shop polishing compounds are cheaper
and much better - buy these at auto paint supply shops if you cant
locate the 3M fiberglass super fine compounds.

This will be the SAME technique /method of polishing/buffing a NEW
fiberglass hull when its pulled from its mold.
If the hull has been previously waxed, strip the old dead wax with
caustics before attempting to power-buff, then reseal with (carnauba)
natural waxes ---- Collinite Fleet Wax usually lasts the longest.

Dont be afraid to 'hog-down' gelcoat when restoring.... If you cant
see the matting layer through the gelcoat, then there is enough to
power-buff and restore.



In article , Jeff Morris
wrote:

I've been using an old Sears 7 inch automobile buffer for years to do my
annual topside waxing, but I've noticed others in the yard have a heavy
duty buffer that works a lot better. However, I haven't seen anything
in the stores that's sold as a buffer. Does anyone have any advice on
what I might get? Since I'll only use it a few times a year it doesn't
have to be super high quality.

Also, I've heard its easy to get too aggressive with these buffers; any
advice?