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Rich Hampel
 
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These work ONLY on teak and not teak substitutes.

Ive tried them on Iroko and afromosa only to have HT quickly lift (like
varnish does). The most impressive thing is the 'adhesion' of Honey
Teak with Teak wood.

For Honey Teak apply THREE coats of base rather than the recommended
two coats. The base coat contains ferrous oxide which is the UV
blocker and thus prevents destruction of the surface wood cells
immediately under the coating. When you first coat with this stuff the
color will look like thinend 'butter scotch' but will soon fade in
sunlight to almost clear. Its the closest thing Ive found to varnish
but it LASTS, easily repairable. I have a "teakey" and the original
application is now going into its 6th season with only one major
repair.

You can apply with just a soft artist brush and leave it ; or. if you
want a 'museum grade' finish you can add extra clear cloats, flat
sand, hand rub with rotten stone or POWER BUFF with a highspeed auto
body shop polisher and ultrafine (3M) rubbing compound or rottenstone
(and water). Interestingly and as with most finishes it seems the
flatter and more glossy the final surface the longer lasting the
finish.

I only get two years out of the clear top-coat. But like I stated
previously all it takes to apply a new clear coat is to scrub with a 3M
purple pad and flow on more clear with a very soft artist brush ....
recoating is very fast. The best temperature for flow application is
about 50 - 60 degrees. I've just begun to apply the yearly clear
maintenance coat with an airbrush ... looks great but dont know how
long it will last. I dont use making tape but just use a large flat
piece of sheet metal and shift it along the edges to take the
overspray.



In article , Wayne.B
wrote:

On Fri, 28 Jan 2005 23:15:29 GMT, Rich Hampel
wrote:

I prefer "Honey Teak" by Signaturefinish.com ... starting to be
fairly common on the east coast. The wescoasters seem to prefer "5
Year Clear" by Smith & Co.


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Thanks. I've heard of both but not yet tried them on anything.