FISHING LINE, has been the cause of water, getting in behind the prop, for
many years. If the boat is in salt water, worse yet.... the seals get
destroyed by the fishing line binding in due to the rotation of the prop,
the water gets behind the seal, thus water will raise, to its level, thus
the gear case gets contaminated with water mixing with the gear oil, any
easy check, if the boat is small enough to be on a trailer, the owner
should notice a leakage of oil coming from the seal dripping on the ground,
thus you lose your gear oil, the salt water, will then takes it place,
doing a lot of nasty stuff, like eating at your lower bearings, that are on
the shaft to the prop. it can also get costly to change all that stuff.
Next time at a good dealership, ask about seal damage, from fishing line.
The man stated earlier, in his posts, that this boat was not checked, like
it should because it's too damn big. If he can afford a 31 footer, this
is no big problem.

"LD" wrote in message
nk.net...
I fail to see (with through prop exhaust and the propshaft seal WAY back
in
there) how fishing line is such a concern. Other areas are the drive
shaft,
shift shaft and porosity of the case, gaskets, etc. Also, a slight bend
in
either drive of prop shaft might not show up under a pressure test but can
leak under a load at normal rpms.
LD

"Joseph Stachyra" wrote in message
...
it's amazing what fishing line can do !!!!
don't blame the engine, or dealer.....
next time check your prop, for fishing line which gets in the seals,
thus
the water..... not rocket science here.

"habbi" wrote in message
...
I have a 2001 250 Johnson XXL which was new in May 2003. I just took
it
out
and drained the gearcase. It was full of water, not milky oil, I mean
pure
water, the end had about a tablespoon of milky oil. I am 100 % sure it
was
full of new clean oil when I put it in the water back in May. There
are
200
hours on the engine. I know I should have checked/changed it sooner
but
it
is a 31' work boat and hard to remove from water. I pressure checked
it
and
no leaks but I have not vacuum tested it as I do not have the pump and
gauge. Anyway dealer is going to cover it under warrantee. Should the
warrantee cover a complete rebuild as the internals are probably
corroded?
Or will they just change the seals?


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