"Alan Gomes" wrote in message
...
Doug,

As I was reading the original post I was thinking the same thing. This is
trivial to fix. If this is the worst problem he finds then he should count
his blessings.

Seriously!

Of course, if this should turn out to be symptomatic of inattention to
larger details, such as the keel attachment or hull to deck joint
construction, then that should be a concern. But if the "hull" is indeed
"strong," including the main structural elements holding it all together,
then I wouldn't break a sweat about the small stuff--especially something
like trim pieces.

I would hope the keel and deck are through-bolted


S&S, by the way, is a very fine designer. Although I've never sailed a
Yankee 30 I'd imagine that "engsol" probably got himself a nice boat.

I suspect so. I've always regarded them as a quality boat.

--Alan Gomes

"Doug Dotson" dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote in message
...
Self tapping screws are pretty much the norm for such applications
into glass. If they are stripped out then it is the fault of an installer
rather than the designer. Through-bolting such minutia is usually
overkill.

Doug
s/v Callista

"engsol" wrote in message
...
My "new" boat is a 1974 Yankee 30 Mk III, desiged by S&S.
It's a srong hull, and a good sailing boat...so I've been told.
But what I'm finding are construction details that I've never
approve of, even being a newbie. My biggest complaint is
that things such as teak trim, power panel, etc are "held" in
place with self-tapping screws into raw fiberglass. You can
guess how well that holds. I'm planning on fitting backing
blocks.

I got to wondering...how much does the designer have to do
with the construction of a boat? To what level of detail does
the designer specifiy the construction? Does the designer
shape the hull, spec the rigging, armwave where the bunks,
head and galley go, and the implementation is left up to the
builder?

Just curious....Norm B