I second the fact that composite props are good as a spare but provide poor
overall performance compared to other props.
Michigan Wheel props are ok in aluminum but don't waist your time or money
on a SS one. Poor design.
If you want the boat to run at optimum performance thru out the entire
operating range - go w/ a good 4 blade SS for your application. You won't
believe the difference. Yes it will cost more but you should be able to
find a good one on ebay.
As for your concern about hitting something w/ the SS prop - When the
aluminum will peal an ear off - the SS will have a very small nick if
anything. Yes - they can be tore up if you hit a rock at speed but just
bumping the bottom you probably will not even know it. And don't believe
the tale of tearing up a gearcase. The prop has the same hub in it as an
aluminum (rubber). This will give way long before the propshaft or gears
(SS). Lower units get tore up due to hitting the object w/ the gearcase as
well as the prop or hitting a rock at full speed. Not by hitting a rock
while easing along.

Bottom line - stay w/ the aluminum if you want to spend $100 or so and have
it tear up everytime you hit a twig in the water.
Go SS if you want optimum performance and the prop to last. Should be able
to find one used for around $200 or less.

Tony

"Mike G" wrote in message
ews.com...
In article ,
says...
You're not going to thank too many people.

Don't do it(composite).

They make fine lightweight spares, that won't ding up your stowage area,
but are a performance compromise.

Your weight arguement doesn't hold water, either(pun intended).

Best performance with the OMCDrive is achieved with the arguably
heavier, but much better design of a stainless prop similar to the
aluminum you have been using... much better bite, thinner blades, better
balance. You will achieve a better running attitude under way - faster
- with more boat out of the water properly trimmed.

Of course, if you like the prop you have now, why not just have it
reconditioned? Most experienced, reputable shops can often make them
better than new.


Rob




Thanks for the reply Rob, I'll keep your points in mind.

A SS prop isn't a consideration for me. I fish a rocky coast and
sometimes in shallow water and I can't see the benefits of the stainless
being cost effective in my situation. It hasn't happened yet but one of
these days I know I'll probably ding up a prop and I'd just as soon it
be one easily and inexpensively repaired.

The old prop is pitted and with a chunk missing. I will get it repaired
and put it aside for a spare but will, if I replace it with an aluminum
prop, get a duplicate of the 13 1/4 X 17 I have now. Most likely a
Michigan wheel product. I'm 99% sure the existing prop is the original
"85" prop with no cup. I figure that even if I go with a straight
replacement the newer designs might be of some additional help.

As a side note, I once had a Triumph TR 650C. One winter I stripped the
engine down and quasi blue printed it. Mostly just cleaning up the
moving parts, polishing, removing flashings from the connecting rods and
rocker arm assembly, in general just taking off excess metal down close
to what the optimal specs said they should be. No new pistons, shaved
heads, etc. Come spring I ran it down to the shop and had it put on a
dyno. Picked up around 8 HP just for shaving off not too many ounces of
excess metal.

Wish I could say the same for the Lucas electrics though.

Thanks again and take care.
Mike

--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods

www.heirloom-woods.net