Brian,

I too find misspelling an irritant and apologize for the lapse.

I knew better but have seen stanchion misspelled as stantion so many
times I guess I too must guard better against this, apparent,
susceptibility. :-)

Then again, what is 'proper' spelling other than a commonly agreed upon
convention which as we both know, evolves, in fact maybe by this very
device.

Courtney



Brian Whatcott wrote:

Since you asked for input, Courtney, here's mine:
the word stanchion is undeserving of being respelled.

Happy Christmas!

Brian.

On Fri, 24 Dec 2004 18:56:28 -0500, Courtney Thomas
wrote:


Steve,

I'd appreciate hearing about stantions you'd recommend.

What do you think of 3/4" galvanized pipe ? If so, what size flange
would you use ?

Thanks,
Courtney



Steve Lusardi wrote:


Marc,
The problem with your solution is that would not survive a 200 lb body
collision in a storm. You have strengthened the stantion mount for sure, but
not sufficiently. The problem is with the FG. It is a low density material
and is incapable of holding that force with only 3 square inches of support.
Your solution needs at least 5 or 6 times more support. Consider the top of
your stantion as a lever point. How much torque would you be applying to the
base? Your solution has only improved the deck's ability to absorb fastener
compression. You will require very large backing plates under the deck as
well. I would use 1/4" stainless plates 12" long and as wide as possible
bonded to the underside with 3m 5200, as fasteners will not hold in FG. Even
at that, the stantions I see advertised are only good for decoration.
Steve

"Marc" wrote in message
...


I am replacing the teak handrails with stainless steel. My intent is
to eliminate teak maintenence and create a strong point in the deck.
To that end I have core drilled a 2" dia hole from underneath
(leaving the top skin intact) at each rail attachment point. This has
removed the wet core. In order to eliminate overhead work, I intend
to make a layup on my work bench 1/2" thick and then cookie cut out 2"
discs and epoxy these into the empty core location at each rail
attachment point. Once these are in place, I'll fill any low points
and glass patch the bottom skin. The rail, itself, has captured nuts
at each attachment point and will be thru bolted from underneath with
large backing plates.

Question: What layup schedule should I use for the cookies?

So far, I have prepped for one rail and I have three more to go.
Question: Is there an easier way to do what I want to do?






--
s/v Mutiny
Rhodes Bounty II
lying Oriental, NC
WDB5619