greenrayled wrote:
 Ah, now I understand. But this has no benefits. A LED that is
 continuously
 on at, say 20mA, will appear to have the same brightness as when
 strobed
 with a 20% duty-cycle (1/5 of the time) at 100mA (5 times the
 current).
 Meindert
 
 Actually not quite. If you talk energy consumption then you are
 right.
 But you can viciously overdrivve LEDs to get far more brightness out
 of then than they normally can give.
 There is also argument that your eye and brain think that the led is
 still alight and this can fool you into seeing a brighter LED. I
 would
 reckon this would work best for LEDs being looked _at_, rather than
 thiose used as a source of illumination.[/i][/color]
 I have been designing such pulse driven led lights commercialy for over
 seven years. I have designed and made (still make) all the various LED
 navigation lights, including anchor lights, and cabin lights too, but
 some of the cabin models are not pulsed...pulse drive works better for
 *visibility*.
 Yes, pulsing can increase PERCIEVED brightness, if the correct paremeters
 are followed, it is a well documented human perception phenomena. You
 don't really need to "overdrive" the leds either, just stay within their
 temp/current ratings for a given duty cycle. The led driver I use now
 takes into account input voltage, temperature, and type of led used, and
 without ever pushing more current through the led than it was designed to
 handle it produces a pulse train of a frequency, output voltage, and duty
 cycle such that from a very low voltage to a very high voltage (input)
 the led will be at a relatively uniform percieved brightness for a power
 consumption of about 60% of that required to get similar percieved
 brightness from continusly driven leds. Pulse driving with a carefully
 controled variable pulse is by far the most efficient way to get maximum
 percieved brightness, as not only do you utilize the inherently efficient
 design of switching control (either on or off, no wasting of electricity
 by turning it into heat) but you can take advantage of the perception
 factor and get a further boost in performance that makes this design
 concept superior.
 The led nav light drivers I design also incorperate such features as
 transient, spike,and overvoltage protection, (I have tested the 12VDC
 light on 115VAC, it shrugged it off) day sensing, bi-polar operation,
 ect. into  retrofit-able led 'bulbs', with the result that when used in a
 standard fixture they give the same or often even better visibility than
 the normal incandesecent bulb that they are designed to replace, IE
 greater than 2NM visibility, but with better functonality, features, and
 reliability. In fact, they are about as bright as other newer model led
 anchor lights that use a DC-DC converter to drive their leds, but the
 pulsed model uses only a small portion of the power that the DC-DC model
 does. I have reasonably good pictures taken at night with a digital
 camera that show pretty close to what the eye sees, comparing anchor
 light fixtures containing both incandesecent bulbs and continuously on
 leds with the pulsed model that bear this out.
 A normal boat could anchor, turn the anchor light on, go away for the
 summer, and come back and start the engine in the late fall with no
 worries.
 If anybody would like more information about led boat lighting design, I
 would be happy to send some to them off-list...it is kinda long.  I can
 get carried away. ;-)  -Ken
[/i][/color]
I tried to email your for more info, but your posting address bounced.
Please send info on both your replacement bulbs and fixtures.
thanx
--
""War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things. The decayed and
degraded state of moral and patriotic feeling which thinks that nothing
is worth war is much worse."
John Stewart Mill
I strongly urge everyone reading this to check out 
WWW.anysoldier.us,
and support our troops with a letter, a package or a donation.