Kevlar is good for point impact resistance but unidirectional glass is
better for strength. A backing plate is an excellent idea. I am using a
1/4" stainless plate. One forward and the other aft of the broaching frame.

I would not glass over the joint. You are going to get a little movement no
matter what you do and the glass is going to crack. After you get the
mating serface cured, drop the keel just a fraction and fill with something
like 4200. Draw it back up almost tight and clean off the squeeze out.
Then torque to final tension after the sealant has had a chance to cure.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

wrote in message
...
This is a continuation of a previous thread. I have a couple more
questions.

After I drop the keel I plan on grinding out any cracks and or
delamination. Then laying down more glass and epoxy. I have some
Kevlar matte. I would like to know if this would be good to use under
the keel bolt nuts? Or should I just stick with regular Glass?

Also, would it be a good idea to use larger backing plates under the
keel bolts? Instead of just the 2" fender washers. Maybe a S.S. plate
that would span two or more bolts.

There are (10) 3/4" S.S. bolts with 1 1/8" nuts.

I will lay the glass down let it set. Drill the holes again. bring the
keel back to the hull. Tape the threads of the keel bolts.Then place
some thickened epoxy in the area of the plate. Wax the plate really
well. Place it over the bolts and draw it up slightly. Then let it set
up. Then torque to spec. This should give it a good even, flat area to
carry the load.

Finally. Any opinions on glassing over the hull to keel seam? Maybe
using the same Kevlar matte. Extending the matte vertically 6-8"
beyond the seam.

Thanks again,