My opinion ... the fuel in the carb (4bbl) would evaporate over time since
the bowl is vented, as will the fuel in the passageways, jets etc ... and
perhaps leave some residue behind ... so that's why I decided to run the
carb dry ... I do this with the snowblower as well after each use.

And, when I start up with the carb dry, the engine has to crank a bit
(mechanical fuel pump) my thinking allowing time for oil to get pumped up
into the engine which should be a good thing before it starts.

But by not fogging with the engine running, I don't get the oil onto the
valves, seats. I don't see a problem (but I can name a few problems I didn't
see) ... so ... opinions on that?

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 09:43:13 -0600, "bowgus"
wrote:

Good luck stalling it ... same suggestion as the others, spray till it
smokes and shut it down. This year I tried something different. My
engine's
carburated ... I installed a fuel shutoff earlier in the year ... so to
winterize, I shut off the fuel and ran the engine until it ran out of
fuel
so the carb would be dry. I then removed all the spark plugs and sprayed
the
oil directly into the cylinders, cranked the engine over (with spark
disabled) and sprayed again. Now, this won't fog the valves but it does
guarantee there's no fuel left in the carb ... opinions?

I have never drained a carb dry. What I normally do, is over treat
the fuel for winter with Sta-bil (not by much, maybe 25%), put a
little extra 2 cycle oil in the mix and run the lawnmower, trimmer,
etc for a few minutes to get the fuel into the carburetor. I do much
the same for my antiques also.

Running a carb dry seems counter-intuitive to me. With the fuel
stabilizer, you should have any problems and the various gaskets and
things don't dry out.

Live long and prosper,

Tom