Even easier, pressurize the fuel tank with a shop vac set up to blow.
W edid this earlier this summer and it worked like a charm. We did
not even need to close the fuel tank vent as little pressure was
needed to move the fuel.

Matt

Rich Hampel wrote in message ...
Install a 12v DC fuel pump at the outlet of the tank and BEFORE the
filter set. When you need to bleed just turn on the 12v pump and
sequentually bleed everything until you reach the guard filter on the
engine. Such 12v pumps are arranged with diaphragm valves and will add
NO extra differential pressure requirements to the fuel system when not
operating .... they just sit there until needed.
BTW - be sure to specify a 12v pump that has EPDM
(ethylenePropyleneDiamineMonomer) gaskets and O-ring which are
compatible with diesel fuel.


In article , Chris
Butler wrote:

I just finished winterizing my 2002 1GM10 Yanmar Diesel (that runs on
a Menger 19' Cat boat) and think there must be a better way of
bleeding the fuel system. For the past three seasons I have changed
the water seperator and paper filter on the engine at the end of every
season. Then I begin the huge task of pumping the Raycor water
seperator for the next hour until fuel starts flowing into the engine.
After that I start pumping the lever on the oil pump (1 hour). Once I
get fuel into the lines the rest of the bleeding goes very easy. My
hand afterwards is sore and battered! I have tried cranking the engine
for short bursts with the compression lever up (this does not seem to
help). Is there anyway to prime or help this process along the way?