Jayno55 wrote:

To respond to Peter's point specifically, I picked out the Vela and the
Cat for their modest length (I want good tracking on the water, but also
maneouvrability in confined waters like canals etc and manageability for
dry carrying/loading)

The simplest way to make carrying easier is to get somebody else to help
you. If you'll be going out to sea at all with limited experience then
that's another place where compnay is a Very Good Idea. Though "Less
Than 3 Shall Never Be" is a guideline rather than a rule cast in stone
there is a reason for it, and the reason is most pertinent with relative
inexperience.

I also thought they were different enough in
construction materials used, form design and features, and rudder vs skeg
etc., to offer an axis for discussion on their relative merits.

Relative merits are just that, and where some people love rudders others
find them an unnecessary complication, and for everyone who likes hard
chines someone else doesn't, and so on. I understand you want the most
informed choices possible but at the end of the day it's how /you/ like
the handling and so on.
I've been a sea paddler for 4 years now, and I still couldn't tell you
my ideal boat if I decided to buy a new one. I bought one second hand
having tried it and found it comfortable and stable, and knowing it
would do what I wanted (the seller passed his 5* sea assessment in it!).

I see Peter that you are involved in medical work: it was pleasing to see
your interest in the comfort/ergonomic needs thrown up by my
'differentabilities'.

It was in part concerning that, but only in part. I don't have any
particular joint problems but there are boats I'm very happy to sit in
and paddle for a couple of hours and boats where I feel I'll never walk
again after 10 minutes (playboats admittedly, but some sea boats I find
distinctly less comfortable than my own). There are various fiddles and
faddles you can do to make a boat fit you better, but something where
the default paddling position is one you find innately comfortable is
generally going to be better than something you need to hack to find
bearable. For me it's usually the angle my hips get turned out to brace
myself in that makes the most difference, and in my own boat (a Selkie)
the most comfortable position is also a good brace.

Working these things out on my own can feel like a
rather lonely pursuit. On the same line, I have recently bought Rocky
Snyder's excellent book 'Fit to Paddle: the paddler's guide to strength
and conditioning' but he writes for normally healthy folk, so I am still
going to have to see a Physiotherapist or something to get help with the
physical issues associated with arthritis and kayaking!

A good instructor should be aware of this sort of thing, especially one
with any experience of instruction for fully disabled paddlers. Good
clubs have access to good coaches, and also a pool of boats to try and
experience to tap, and people to paddle with while you get up to speed.

Another thing an instructor will do /much/ better than a book is get
your paddling as efficient as possible so you're using technique rather
than brute force. This is important anyway, but if you're behind the
curve for any reason it's even more important still. Developing a good
touring paddling technique is probably going to be more important than
honing muscles, not that that would be a bad thing.

I'm still keen on learning from the comments of either of you two or any
other reader, so please keep 'em coming.

With the above in mind, look up a good club with a touring bias and then
you'll be among kindred souls doing what you want with direct experience
and Toys to play with. It'll also give you a higher possibility of a
second hand boat which could save you a /lot/ of money, then maybe get a
new one in a year or 3 when you've more idea of your own Perfect Boat.
Another thing saving money will do is let you spend more on a better
paddle. Something like a Lendal touring paddle with a G1F shaft is less
stiff and thus less strain on your joints than a basic glass shaft, and
their carbon/nylon blades are substantially lighter than the standard
polypro or nylon ones, but they're also much, much more expensive. Some
people like cranked shafts finding they lead to less wrist problems,
others find they make things worse. Only way to be sure is try yourself.

This isn't to say you can't get a good boat with a bit of reading and a
few tries: one of the newer members of TSKC did just that (he got a
plastic Perception he seems happy with), but I don't see he's better off
than if he'd just used Club boats for a while until he could pin down
what he really wanted.

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/