ubject: Pensacola Waves
From: (JAXAshby)
Date: 09/16/2004 19:33 Pacific Standard Time
Message-id:
therefore, waves break in deeper water.
Waves are not normally formed so that the crest is the same height above
the
"still water level" as the trough is below it.
Normally the crest is higher.
Part of the problem with your simplistic arguement, is that you are basing it
on normal soundings at the shoreline area.
However, not having a chart of that coastline, it would be impossible to say
how far inshore a large 36' wave could get before breaking and falling apart.
What was the depth of water at time of tide? What was the increased depth due
to storm surge? Was it a gentle sloping beach or a deep channel? Was there a
swell underlying the wind wave?
Add to this that "Mother Nature" doesn't always adhere to strict laws of
physics and you have the possibility of it happening.
Hey, scientist thought for years that rogue waves were a very infrequent
occurence .... they now know better.
Shen