You already have a good source for information. The only aditional points I
want ot bring up are;
1) when setting up the hole for buildup you should grind the taper to both
the inside as well as the outside. The inside needs only to be ground clean
to take new fiberglass. This will enabel a thicker repair while maintaining
the fair of the hull. It will also enable the repair to be clamp like.
2) When laying up layers of mat do not cut the mat to shape with a scissor,
instead tear the section so as to alow the fibers to blend together. The use
of a resin roller will facilitate the blending of the fiberglass with the
mat. I prefer to brush the area wet with resin then lay the dry mat on top
and roll it with the roller to pull the resin through the mat. The build up
should look opaque but clear. It should not look like polyurithane with
some cloth in it! Build up about four layers then let it kick off and set up
compleatly. Sand it down and wipe with styrene if you can get it. If not use
acetone then lay up a few more layers. Do the same on the inside only use a
biaxial cloth instead if mat for all but the first layer. This will give
added thickness and strenth.
3) Do not use autobody filler as a fairing compound. It contains gypsum and
will expand when wet. Use Formula 27 or a similar marine product or a short
hair stranded filler (automotive type) that says waterproof on the labeling.
Good Luck
John
Currently rebuilding the decks on a C&C Corvette.
"Bonasa" wrote in message
...
Hi,
I feel like I'm just barging in here as I'm not a regular poster to this
group, but I'm hoping for some advice. I've already gotten a lot of good
information from Google and doing a Dejanews search of past posts to this
group, but nothing specifically addressing my situation.
I recently ended up with a 22' sailboat for a very good price. The reason
it
was so cheap is there is damage to the hull; a crack about 3 feet long.
The
gelcoat and fiberglass are cracked clear through, from the inside looking
at
the crack you can see daylight. It looks like the side got bashed into a
dock, it's about at the right level and I can't figure out what else would
cause such a long crack.
I'm using Don Casey's Sailboat Hull & Deck Repair book as a reference
manual. The method is pretty straight forward but all the illustrations
and
the description of how to make the repair seem to be geared towards a neat
round hole. Once I cut out the ruined fiberglass I'm going to have a hole
about 3.5 feet long and 4 inches wide. I can get to the crack from the
inside, so I'll be laying acrylic over the exterior and applying the
gelcoat
as shown in the book. But because it's a horizontal repair instead of the
neat little circles of mat shown in the book I'm going to have to use big
long strips in progressively longer strips.
Even with the 12:1 taper I'm concerned about the strength of the repair.
Fortunately the crack is not on a structural part of the boat but is this
going to be a repair I can trust to hold with a mechanical bond?
Any advice, comments, or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated.
I've worked with fiberglass and epoxy before but only on kayaks. So I'm
not
a total stranger to the process but this way more than I've ever tried to
tackle. Feel free to throw in some moral support if you feel so inclined.
Thanks for any help and sorry this is so long.
Best Regards,
Mike
--
He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog.
You are his life, his love, his leader. He will be yours, faithful and
true,
to the last beat of his heart. You owe it to him to be worthy of such
devotion.
-- Anonymous
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