There's such a thing as net wisdom and traditional practices, and then
there's also real proof of what works:

http://www.reelboats.com/tongass/step13.html My 22' Tolman Jumbo offshore
skiff project

Towards the end of the page (scroll down) above, you'll see and read about
how I "tack welded" with thickened epoxy in between stitches to hold my side
panels on while I removed the stitches. These side panels take a pretty
hard turn around the bow and are 3/8" thick, and the wood is Meranti
....stiffer than fir and other woods. Make sure you do a good job of using a
brush to precoat / pre-soak the edges that you will glue. Then use a putty
knife to add thickened epoxy into the joints (wood flour + silica in my
case). I waited 24 hours and removed the stitches. Shop temp was about 65
F, and the epoxy was System Three general purpose with #2 Medium hardener.
I've done this on every boat that I've built and never the slightest
failure. I'd say the process is very low risk. No need to leave stitches
and fasteners in the boat to hold the joint together for construction.
Epoxy is strong stuff.

Brian D


wrote in message ...
Looking for some net wisdom here for anyone who has built a stich and glue
boat. I am building a 14' power skiff from the plans at glen-l.com. I
have
stiched the boat and start to apply the fillet. My question is when
should I
remove or try to remove the wire holding the boat together? Is the fillet
strong enough to hold the boat together or should I wait until I apply the
fiber glass to the seams? Just wondering when I should remove the wire.
Thanks