Bottom line: If you replace the impeller every season, you get
proficient in doing it, the bolts don't get a chance to rust in, and
the chances of an impeller failure diminish greatly.

On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 09:23:23 -0300, "Capt. Mooron"
wrote:

All good Marc... but the face plate faces the engine I believe.

CM

"Marc" wrote in message
.. .
| 2 things. first , get a speed seal pump cover. 4 knurled thumb screws
| and the cover comes off, no tools.
|
| second, drill out the threaded holes in the pump and weld nuts to the
| forward side of the pump bracket. Insert the bolts through the pump
| from the rear , Pump is then removeable without removing the bracket.
|
| On Sat, 24 Jul 2004 23:26:28 -0300, "Capt. Mooron"
| wrote:
|
| I'm overjoyed I coaxed you into a proper reply to Bart's Question Jeff!
;-P
|
| Seriously... each step you illustrated was correct... and I don't have a
| gauge so I have to assume a warning buzzer. I've had a few clogged
intakes
| in time and a couple of bad impellers.... I concur with your assessment
of
| Yanmar Pumps!
|
| CM
|
|
| "Jeff Morris" wrote in message
| ...
| | The coolant flow can be checked by inspection almost immediately,
though a
| | partial clog can look OK and still send it into Overheat. Certainly
I'd
| look
| | there first if there was any significant change.
| |
| | However, if the gauge is moving quickly, like up and down in a matter
of
| | seconds, it can't be a real temperature issue, because the coolant
can't
| change
| | temperature that quickly. I've never had a temp sensor do that, but
I've
| seen
| | it from a faulty oil pressure sensor, and I've seen it from a dangling
| wire.
| |
| | When my heat exchanger was partially clogged the engine was more
sensitive
| the
| | overheating problems. I could tell within a few seconds if my wife
turned
| on
| | the microwave because the temp would start to creep up. Now the temp
is
| a bit
| | more stable, but I can't run the engine up to 3000 rpm if the
alternator
| is
| | fully loaded.
| |
| | BTW, last week I did have an overheat situation: within a minute after
| dropping
| | the mooring at Kittery, I noticed the starboard engine temp going up.
It
| put it
| | into neutral and asked my wife to check the water flow - there was
none.
| We
| | killed the engine and went back to the mooring (its sometimes nice to
have
| two
| | engines!). First I pulled the intake of the pump - full flow meaning
no
| intake
| | clog. Then I pulled the output hose off and asked my wife to "start"
with
| the
| | kill switch pulled - no flow. At that point I just pulled off the
water
| pump,
| | removed the cover (damn Yanmar mounted the pump on the GM's so that the
| cover
| | can't be reached without pulling the pump!). The impellor looked OK,
but
| my
| | wife asked how it worked so I spun the pulley to show her but the
impeller
| | didn't spin! I seems the impellor was spinning free on its hub. A
spare
| was
| | put in and we were underway again with a total delay of about 45
minutes.
| |
| |
| |
| |
| | "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message
| | ...
| | Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check the
| belts???
| | Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the coolant
| flow
| | prior to questioning your instruments?
| |
| | CM
| |
| | "Jeff Morris" wrote in message
| | ...
| | | Oh! The ENGINE temperature!
| | |
| | | Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a
significant
| | buffer, so
| | | if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle move,
| its
| | probably
| | | a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault.
| | |
| | | If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a
slipping
| belt.
| | I've
| | | never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down
repeatedly
| but I
| | | suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode?
| |
| |
| |
| |
|
|