2 things. first , get a speed seal pump cover. 4 knurled thumb screws
and the cover comes off, no tools.

second, drill out the threaded holes in the pump and weld nuts to the
forward side of the pump bracket. Insert the bolts through the pump
from the rear , Pump is then removeable without removing the bracket.

On Sat, 24 Jul 2004 23:26:28 -0300, "Capt. Mooron"
wrote:

I'm overjoyed I coaxed you into a proper reply to Bart's Question Jeff! ;-P

Seriously... each step you illustrated was correct... and I don't have a
gauge so I have to assume a warning buzzer. I've had a few clogged intakes
in time and a couple of bad impellers.... I concur with your assessment of
Yanmar Pumps!

CM


"Jeff Morris" wrote in message
...
| The coolant flow can be checked by inspection almost immediately, though a
| partial clog can look OK and still send it into Overheat. Certainly I'd
look
| there first if there was any significant change.
|
| However, if the gauge is moving quickly, like up and down in a matter of
| seconds, it can't be a real temperature issue, because the coolant can't
change
| temperature that quickly. I've never had a temp sensor do that, but I've
seen
| it from a faulty oil pressure sensor, and I've seen it from a dangling
wire.
|
| When my heat exchanger was partially clogged the engine was more sensitive
the
| overheating problems. I could tell within a few seconds if my wife turned
on
| the microwave because the temp would start to creep up. Now the temp is
a bit
| more stable, but I can't run the engine up to 3000 rpm if the alternator
is
| fully loaded.
|
| BTW, last week I did have an overheat situation: within a minute after
dropping
| the mooring at Kittery, I noticed the starboard engine temp going up. It
put it
| into neutral and asked my wife to check the water flow - there was none.
We
| killed the engine and went back to the mooring (its sometimes nice to have
two
| engines!). First I pulled the intake of the pump - full flow meaning no
intake
| clog. Then I pulled the output hose off and asked my wife to "start" with
the
| kill switch pulled - no flow. At that point I just pulled off the water
pump,
| removed the cover (damn Yanmar mounted the pump on the GM's so that the
cover
| can't be reached without pulling the pump!). The impellor looked OK, but
my
| wife asked how it worked so I spun the pulley to show her but the impeller
| didn't spin! I seems the impellor was spinning free on its hub. A spare
was
| put in and we were underway again with a total delay of about 45 minutes.
|
|
|
|
| "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message
| ...
| Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check the
belts???
| Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the coolant
flow
| prior to questioning your instruments?
|
| CM
|
| "Jeff Morris" wrote in message
| ...
| | Oh! The ENGINE temperature!
| |
| | Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a significant
| buffer, so
| | if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle move,
its
| probably
| | a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault.
| |
| | If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a slipping
belt.
| I've
| | never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down repeatedly
but I
| | suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode?
|
|
|
|