Wally,

I think butyl tape would be a good way to go. I have a Catalina 30 MK-II and
the windows are sealed that way. No leaks, and I'm fairly sure this is the
original bedding. I also used it to replace some silicone bedding that was
used to seal a portlight located above the quarterberth (but was leaking),
and the butyl tape seems to have taken care of the leak just fine.

Check out McMaster-Carr (www.mcmastercarr.com) as a good source for the
stuff.

I also read on a list that C&C used butyl tape to seal their hull to deck
joints, though I do not know whether this is so.

Regards,
Alan Gomes


"Wally" wrote in message
...
DSK wrote:

Yes but it would look better without those in any case. A better
comparison would be with (harder to draw in, I know)

(With?) I've added a photo showing the original window shape, but with the
stanchions and lifelines removed.


I'd be very afraid of weakening the structure... DON'T cut that
beam... in fact don't cut within 3 or 4 inches of it. The fiberglass
flange where it joins the coach roof molding is sure to be a
structural element. You can add fiberglass channels around the edge
of the new port opening for stiffness, but it'd be a major
engineering job to design & build a new mast step support.

I'm not planning to cut the opening at all. The new shape is basically a
go-faster stripe.


The plus side of bigger windows is more light inside (the tint looks
cool, but don't overdo it). The downside is a weaker coach roof.

The reason for going for a tint is to disguise the outline of the aperture
underneath - I may darken the GRP around the aperture if it shows through
the tint. It could do with some more light inside, and I'm looking into
the
possibility of putting a Houdini-type hatch on the cabin roof forward of
the
mast. It has a little 'ventilight' thing there at the moment. I think some
MkI Foxcubs (the Super model, perhaps) were fitted with a Houdini in this
location, so I think it will be okay structurally.


I'd put the acrylic on the outside, beveled, onto a mated surface
around the edge of the port, and use small screws only to hold it in
place while the 5200 dries.

Is that an adhesive sealant? If so, would there be problems with trying to
remove a window later? I was thinking of tacky butyl tape (squidgy and
compressible) with lots of screws.


The more time & work you put into the edges, both the seating to the
new port and the channel around the inside, the stronger & tighter it
will be. I've seen this kind of thing done well on a few boats...
seen a botched "quickie" job dozens of times (including on a boat we
were considering buying until we got a close look at this and many
other owner customized bits).

Well, the boat's a bit tatty and isn't really worth the effort to bring it
to anything approaching a concours finish. Neat, waterproof, and
maintainable are the main aims with the windows.


--
Wally
www.artbywally.com
www.wally.myby.co.uk/music