First, visit this site for some great guidelines:
http://www.brownsmarina.com/tech-winter-outboard.html

There are frequent discussions here about gasoline stabilizers. I don't use
one, and each spring, my outboard starts in one pull. If you are confused by
the 1001 opinions on the subject, use the stabilizer. For $3.50, you'll feel
more at peace.

Electrical connections should ALWAYS be coated with dielectric grease, not
just in winter. Auto supply stores carry it.

When I stored my boat outside, I was "iffy" about having the lower half of
the motor buried in snow, so I removed the motor and built a stand to keep
it in the garage. I have no idea why, except for a sneaking suspicion that
although it was made to sit in water, it was NOT made to be repeatedly
chilled to 5 degrees and then thawed out, with moisture in the seams.

-Doug

"Russell Hermansen" wrote in message
. net...
I am a first time boat owner and this is my first attempt at winterizing
my
boat and outboard. I own a 1981 Grady White 21' Overnighter on a trailer
with a mounted 175 HP Evinrude outboard. I know I have to put a
stabilizier
in the gas so it doesn't go bad, but what procedures should I take with
the
engine/lower unit etc. I heard somewhere you should run the engine with a
real oil heavy gas mix to coat everything before winter sets in, which is
soon. What is the mix to be used and what is the procedure, I have a 60
gallon tank in the boat. Should I disconnect the batteries and pull from
the boat. Do you need to remove the fuel/water seperator filter? Is there
something you should do to the water pump/lower drive unit? I know I need
to cover the boat with shrink warap or a tarp, is there anything else I
should do? Coat electrical connections with grease? Should I take the
load off the trailer tires with wood blocks? Any help would be
appreciated.
Thanks so much fellow educated boaters! Russ Hermansen