Perhaps I don't understand the description but wouldn't this cotter undo
if the studs rotate as it links two pins together?

Cheers MC

N1EE wrote:

Like you Doug, I prefer the bigger ringy-ding
type to the normal cotter pin.

However, I have never been satisfied with
either normal cotter pin or ringy-dings type
of cotter-pin for turnbuckles.

Last year I rigged and taped nine boats. I would
use the larger ringy-ding type and tape them. And
I hated dealing with them.

I've been thinking about finding a better solution
to this issue since last spring.

I recently I came across this reference on
"Turnbuckle Stud Cotter Pins" and wanted to see if
anyone else was using this method, and thought it
might be a good topic.

It is such a great method, and yet I've never
seen anyone using it. I'm going to make up a bunch
of these next year.


******************************************
Source: Tracy, "Better Boat" Vol 9, pg 13.

Turnbuckle-stud cotter pins are tough to install,
because you have to bend them back so far to keep
them from gouging passersby. And even then you
have to tape over the ends. A much cleaner method
involves stainless steeel TIG (tungsten inert gas)
welding rod. Its a flux-free stainless rod. Ask
for 1/16 or 3/32-inch (1.6 mm or 2.4 mm) diameter
(depending on the turnbuckle size) heliarc welding
rod, type 304 or 316. To make a TIG cotter, bend
one end of the rod to get and "L' shape. The bar
of the L needs to be about 1-1/2 inches longer than
the diameter of the turnbuckle stud. Insert the bar
into the top cotter hole, mark where the rod passes
the bottom cotter hole, then take the rod out and
bend it at the mark. Cut the lower leg so it's the
same length as the upper, making a "C" shape, then
file any sharp edges off. To install the cotter,
insert the "C" into the cotter holes. Using a pair
of pliers, bend the tips of the rods 90 degrees
towards each other. Finish by bending the rods
together at the studs, so the end roll inside, out
of traffic. No tape is needed--and they look great.


***********************
End of Quote.


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I tried to sketch the shape above. The idea is one of
these TIG fabricated cotter-pins replaces two normal
or two ringy-ding cotter pins and does not protrude
outside the turnbuckle.

I like the fact idea very much. However, I wonder if
it still might be wise to tape off the turnbuckle to
prevent snags around the threaded part of the turnbuckle.
If you often need to add and subtract pre-bend to your
rig for heavy and light air, then tape would just get
in the way.

I also like turnbuckles with lock nuts. But it is
expensive to change over from one type to the other.
I've used these lock-nut type turnbuckles without tape,
and while dousing, I've torn many spinnakers when it
was unclear how it happened. I suspect in some cases
these spinnakers snagged on the exposed threaded portion
of a shroud turnbuckle.

Some one-design boats use brackets to secure a pair of
turnbuckles together. I like the fact these can be
released and adjusted quickly, but wonder if they would
tend to snag a spinnaker also. Has anyone used these?

Bart Senior


DSK wrote


N1EE wrote:


What's the best cotter pin type to secure
a turnbuckle?

I like to use an oversized ring type cotter pin. They still have to be
taped over (it's a commonly heard myth that cotter rings won't snag
lines) but they are easier to use and have longer useful life. Some
people I sail with use safety-pin style cotter pins. These are fine
but I think they are more obtrusive.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King