Check the firing order. 5.0L and 5.8L marine are 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. Also
check your plug wires. Make sure one is not arcing to the manifold, etc.
Bill

"ClassicBoat" wrote in message
news
On 9 Jul 2003 04:04:03 -0700, (GVB) wrote:

Throttle pump arm is good.
Distrib cap is new.
Timing set at 10* BTDC running 89 octane.
Ballast resistor was bypassed as part of the ignition kit install.
I'll double check the voltage at the coil to make sure I'm getting
12v.

Any other ideas? Keep in mind that when I first start the boat, let
it warm up to operating temperatures and run it, it runs fine, but
won't get up to top speed.

Once it's been on and under light load for about 10 minutes, the
issues begin. Sputtering/Bogging down at low rpm, etc...

Thanks!

"Calif Bill" wrote in message
...
"Ron White" wrote in message
...
It could be the ignition wire, the wire from the ignition switch to
the
coil. To test for this, just place a jumper from the coil to a good
hot
source like the battery or starter lug. Of course this can be
dangerous
because you cannot turn off the engine without removing the wire.
Oddly , this can cause bad running if this goes bad. sounds like you
have
done most of the things that you would normally suspect, so try that.



As to the hesitation, pull the throttle pump activating arm. the one
that
rides on the cam and clean and grease the pivot post. Mine, gets rust
on
the post and the throttle pump barely moves. Check that the
distributor cap
is not cracked. The Ford Power Products bulletin #200 June 1966 says
to set
the timing 2 degrees BTC if running 87 Octane and 10 degrees if running
89+
octane. With the Electronic ignition (Petronics?) try running 12 volts
to
the coil and bypass the dropping (ballast) resistor. Mine got some
corrosion somewhere in the wiring and was only running 5 volts at the
coil.
I find the NGK plugs run the best. Do not use Motocraft. They are not
plated and rust to the holes very quickly.
Bill

You seem to have covered most bases. The specific problem I keep
trying to reconcile is the backfiring. Since you seem to have done
everything to insure fuel getting to the cylinders and a hot spark, if
the latest carb soaking attempt doesn't fix the problem I'd look at
the (admittedly somewhat remote) possibility of sticking valves.