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Bill[_12_] Bill[_12_] is offline
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Jan 2017
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Default Question for Fat Harry

Its Me wrote:
On Thursday, August 2, 2018 at 1:32:48 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thu, 2 Aug 2018 11:43:38 -0400, Keyser Soze wrote:

On 8/2/18 11:25 AM, justan wrote:
Its Me Wrote in message:
On Wednesday, August 1, 2018 at 9:41:49 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Wed, 1 Aug 2018 20:02:12 -0400, Keyser Soze wrote:

Hardest part was learning how to properly
headspace a barrel. Do it wrong and possible kaboom.

More like a failure to go into battery, causing a failure to fire or
failure to extract, causing a double feed jam.

He's talking about the AR-15 he "built", and there's really nothing
to headspace on one. If the barrel and receiver are properly
machined to spec, it has the proper headspace built into the design.
When it becomes important is when you are fitting a more traditional
barrel and receiver together, and are doing the machining yourself.
Let's say you have a Mauser 98 action, and you're building a 30-06
with a Shaw barrel. Then you have to check and machine in the
correct headspace, and even then it's not hard to do.


Another fabricated Fat Harry story?


Barrels in sporting rifles don't headspace themselves automatically, and
it is worth taking a few minutes to check it. If JackOff wants to take
the chance of a kaboom, it is fine with me.


You still have not said where the kaboom comes from. If the headspace
is too large the extractor might not grab the rim, causing a jam or
the firing pin might not hit the primer, causing a misfire, worst case
a hang fire but they are very rare with modern primers.
If the headspace is too small the bolt won't close. No boom at all
there. A bolt action usually will not shoot until the bolt is seated
and a SA has a disconnector.


IF you have enough excessive headspace, and IF you get the round to fire,
and IF the case pressure is sufficient, you can have the the case swell
and/or split in that unsupported area. IF all the IF's add up perfectly.
The most common symptoms are cratered or pushed back primers, rings
around the base of the brass, or the brass rim being distorted.

It's always a good idea to inspect your first fired casings of an outing,
especially when you change loads or brands of ammo.


Would be more the angle for the shoulder. 5.56 will fire a .223, but the
reverse is very much discouraged.